Grinding noise in drive train - Page 13 - MVAgusta.net
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post #121 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 11:36 AM
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post #122 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 06:00 PM
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Same same from three weeks ago when I investigated the rear sprocket slack-slop. Sprocket assembly wobbling as shown on several vids here.


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The flat end of the 'Top Hat 'spacer is tightened aginst the rounded end of the hub spacer reducing the contact area significantly. If one ever rotated against the other and/or one is harder than the other.........



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In other news,



My thought was that the mount rubbers are shrinking. (with heat cycles?) Mine show no wear but have an aluminum sheen. Molding flash is still there.


Measurements of the sprocket mounting drum 'drive lugs' are approx. 9mm and the space they are to fill in the rubbers when seated in the final sprocket sleeve measures approx. 10.5mm.


The lug being closer to the axle center means the slack effect is mutiplied at the chain.


My fix was to insert two .45mm shims the same size as the drive face of and installed on each side of each drive lug then to re-assemble the sprocket mounting drum into the rubbers in the final sprocket sleeve. 1.5mm - .9mm = .6mm.


300 miles later:


there is no wear on the mounting drum lugs,
the sprocket assy. is firmly joined to the sprocket sleeve with virtually no wobble,
the rear end whining howl has all but disappeared, (what? I didn't mention the whining turbine howl?)
the jerky throttle on/off dance is subdued.


I have checked the sprocket assembly with a laser thermometer and it runs about 117 F after an hour on the highway. The hub area of the swingarm is 112 F.
For reference the 'F3' engine cover is 165 F and the cylinder area is 220 F.


I know that replacing the mount rubbers is fun and what else do we have in our lives but MEH I will watch the parts for wear and go riding instead.
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Last edited by Amplific; 07-28-2019 at 07:06 PM.
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post #123 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastspy View Post
Mitchy

Is there a spec stacked dimension of the Mitchy hub (width), including the spacer on the left side, that you sell?
Sorry for the late reply,the total length of my hub is 102mm without the spacer.The spacer width is 2mm that suits my hub.My hub had to be a touch longer to accomodate the twin bearings but leave enough clearance to the disc carrier bolts which it has.Hope this helps you.
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post #124 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amplific View Post

I have checked the sprocket assembly with a laser thermometer and it runs about 117 F after an hour on the highway. The hub area of the swingarm is 112 F.
For reference the 'F3' engine cover is 165 F and the cylinder area is 220 F.
You mention a topic that has not been addressed in this thread and that is operational temp of a satisfactory lubricated OEM hub and the cush drive system. Heat obviously could be a indicator of either hub bearings requiring service or replacement and/or abnormal cush drive friction.

My OEM cush drive has slop as evidenced by the early posted video in this thread. The sprocket carrier has not made contact with the hub however I certainly want to remedy the issue prior to contact/damage.

I replaced my cush drive rubber dampeners with new and assembled the cush drive system with application of SM grease on the gold colored bushing surface and grease on the sprocket carrier drive guides/rubber dampener interface as referenced in the shop manual.

With the new rubber dampeners there is no rotational slop. In fact the insertion of the sprocket carrier drive guides into the rubber dampeners required force. However the side to side slop of the sprocket still exists.

After some freeway driving, I noticed more heat in the cush drive assembly and also (less) heat in the hub area of the swing arm. I could leave my hand on both surfaces without issue but the heat was evident. I checked the front hub/bearing by touch and there was no heat. Unfortunately I did not have the proper temp sensors like you utilized to accurate determine the amount of heat present.

Should one, with a properly lubricated/serviced OEM hub and a OEM cush drive without slop, feel heat in those areas after freeway driving? If so, what would be normal increased temp ranges one would find?
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post #125 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 01:01 AM
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Fastspy;
Torque your hub pinch bolts to 15lbft/20Nm NO MORE

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post #126 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastspy View Post
How many miles did you put on the moto since the last cush drive install? Wonder if that sprocket side axle nut was torqued beyond the 200-220 nm and contributed to the problem you have?

Didn't you mention that loosening that sprocket side nut was more than you expected...
The cush drives lasted about nine months or about six thousand miles before I noticed metal scrubbing.
Yes, the nut was super tight.

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post #127 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchy View Post
That looks better as far as how far the axle is protruding past the sprocket side nut,but isn't that washer on the axle a bit too large in diameter.
Also how does your caliper line up now.
The diameter over the axle I thought was perfect. I had to reduce the outside diameter to fit properly. The "line up" was better, but the rotor was slightly to port.

I picked up my TVL from the Ducshop after being in the shop for a month for a valve adjustment and fluid changes.

I had Mark disassemble the axle components and measure them against a new set up off another bike. He said the BDS sprocket carrier was 3mm less in width than the stock carrier. He moved my spacer on the wheel side and stacked it side by side to Mitch's spacer on the sprocket side. He said all is aligned well now. I have not disassembled it or checked the sprocket nut torque, but I am today. I did reduce the pinch bolt torque to 22Nm.

Only one valve had a minor adjustment.
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post #128 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrys409 View Post
I have not disassembled it or checked the sprocket nut torque, but I am today. I did reduce the pinch bolt torque to 22Nm.
Only one valve had a minor adjustment.
I was trying to determine what torque to use on the pinch bolts also and after reviewing many old threads on this subject it seemed to be reported by a few that the older hubs (prior to the change in the wheel side hub bearing which the TV has) were conducive to bearing distortion with spec torque. From what was mentioned in the old threads, the newly redesigned hub was safe for the minimum torque spec posted on the swing arm.

Hopefully those that have more knowledge on this subject can comment.


Good news on the valve lash check and that only one required adjustment.

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Last edited by Fastspy; 07-22-2019 at 03:07 PM.
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post #129 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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I am not sure. Many have suggested a lower torque setting, so I did it. Some say less than 20Nm. I would guess Mitch's hub would tolerate the minimal suggested torque.

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post #130 of 132 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrys409 View Post
I am not sure. Many have suggested a lower torque setting, so I did it. Some say less than 20Nm. I would guess Mitch's hub would tolerate the minimal suggested torque.
You can safely torque the pinch bolts to spec with my hub being a solid billet.
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