Grinding noise in drive train - Page 11 - MVAgusta.net
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post #101 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
It's the axial length of the cush drive.....29.36+mm
thanks but I think you might have to dumb it down for me..

I'm assuming this measurement could be compared to my cush drive axial length to determine amount of wear on the mating surfaces when torqued into the stack and if the cush drive on my bike is indeed worn causing the slop. However where exactly are those two points on the caliper touching the cush drive to obtain the 29.36mm?
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post #102 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 10:32 PM
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The 29.36+mm is from, in your post #99, the alloy shoulder next to the right jaw of the caliper, down next
to the splines to the steel block the cush drive is sitting on

My dimension is relevant to this cush drive, maybe yours (tolerances)

The stack from the axle shoulder is;
The 6810-2RS inner race
The 5520 inner race
The spacer
The 5520 inner race
The hat shaped spacer
The splined piece of the cush drive
The cover of the cush drive

Radial and axial wear in the cush drive allows the cush drive to push the hat shaped spacer against the hub, wearing both.
This also shortens the hat shaped spacer allowing more movement in the cush drive, eventually grinding on the hub
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Last edited by theknurl; 06-06-2019 at 02:22 PM.
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post #103 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 06:54 AM
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Someone asked me what did MV send me as a replacement for my rear hub guarantee claim. Here is the exact list:


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post #104 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchy View Post
Thinking about it more,I am sure your axle is the problem.
The shoulder where it sits against the wheel side bearing has been ground/machined down at some stage causing it to sit too far in.
That would explain everything that's going on here.
I think you’re right and I may have to get a new axle. I never got the sprocket nut to be flush with the axle. I put torque paint on the nuts and safety wire, because it didn’t align.

Today, I’m back from a 1100 mile trip to St. Pete, after about fifty miles in my city, checking and rechecking the assembly. I thought I heard a little noise accelerating out of first, but nothing else. No metal shavings this time because I filed the edge of the hub by 1mm, like Mitch suggested.

I wanted to look at everything so I started to loosen the sprocket nut, paint marks aligning and clip on, and the nut was loose!! Not hand loose, but very loose with the breaker bar

I’ve said before my brake pad position is displaced off center, because of the spacing issue, and I don’t believe they are stopping me forcefully enough.

With the dirty grease on the hub bearing, the rubber o-ring smashed and torn again, does it look like I need to clean the grease out of the new bearings?

Is the collar supposed to be flush with the speedo wheel like in the photo with a Straight edge laying across it?

Do I work with spacers or is it best to buy a new axle?
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Last edited by Terrys409; 06-16-2019 at 03:46 PM.
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post #105 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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If the collar on the axle is ground down, making the axle the total length 148.7, then a new one must be about 152 mm.
Don’t make fun of my shadetree gauge.
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Terry_________________________________________
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Last edited by Terrys409; 06-16-2019 at 04:18 PM.
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post #106 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 04:36 PM
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I do not own a late model axle,hopefully an owner can measure one for you to give you a comparison.


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post #107 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcSilverTriple View Post
Got my bike back today and rode about 160km with the BDS sprocket carrier:


I had both Sprocket carrier and top hat spacer from BDS mounted, and my dealer confirmed they both fit exactly where the OEM parts were going hub was serviced at the same time, on my request, as well as replacement of the chain kit)… There is something weird in your case, Terry. Is there a washer missing somewhere (maybe you did not have leftover, but your dealer had one when he serviced your hub?)?

Now that being said, I noticed while riding it is smoother than with the OEM parts (was in Sport mode, and the reaction are smoother than it was before in Touring mode)...
Sorry, I was on vacation and missed your question, Marc. I have accounted for all the washers, but think my axle collar is worn and will either buy a new axle or like others said, make up the difference with an approximately 2mm thick washer on the wheel side. See my brake pads and signs of previous wear on the wheel side.

Terry_________________________________________
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post #108 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 04:44 PM
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Terry
Sorry to hear your issue is not fixed yet and also for including my sloppy cush drive issue in your thread.

Question for you.
Can you measure the "stacked" dimension of the Mitch hub with the spacer/top hat spacer in place and with the axle removed and then take the same measurement on your OEM factory hub to determine if there is any difference?

Stacked dimension = outer surface of spacer/top hat spacer (red mark) through the center of the hub to the outer stacked surface of the hub on the wheel side. Hope this makes sense but it would tell you that either they are identical in dimension or not and could either be or not be a problem mated to the axle you have.
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post #109 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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No worries. I think the cush drive is responsible for all this.
Yes. I will do it this evening and report back

Terry_________________________________________
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Last edited by Terrys409; 06-18-2019 at 01:20 PM.
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post #110 of 130 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:58 PM
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Not sure if you are aware of this cost or not...
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