Tight spot on new sprockets and chain?!? - Page 2 - MVAgusta.net
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario Landavoz View Post
112mm is ~4.5".

Knurl's advice is spot on. Except use a dial caliper like he has. The Venier caliper went out with the slide-rule.
Wrong......
112 mm =4.409".......If you had a vernier caliper you'd instantly know that

dial inch on top
metric/inch vernier in the middle (It stays on my desk)
dial metric on bottom
The 2 dial calipers stay in the workshop
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mario Landavoz View Post

Marlene Dietrich? I didn't know he had a taste for the vintage rides. From his pic' postings I would assume he was into the modern stuff only.
No Marlene Dietrich.......
The oldest woman I dated or lived with was Jeannie, a grandmother at 42
Last live in was Alexis, she was 32, I was in my mid 60s

This is Jeannie
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cruiser and Manic like this.

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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
WTF???
The pitches vary by 1/8"......
With the wrong master link the chain won't even go on the sprocket

Sure it will....but the chain will get wicked tight when that master link gets to the sprocket.

Chain is "on"

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Now attaching "bad" master": (for illustrative purposes only...no chain or sprockets were harmed in the performance of this maintenance.)

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Now, roll that bike!



For those who will say this can't be done...I did it to a friend's bike when I got the masters that I had mixed up....ask Carlos (Kreative). Lucky for me , and Carlos, I have a practice of checking my work. Yes, it was a problem when that link got to the sprockit.

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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
No Marlene Dietrich.......
The oldest woman I dated or lived with was Jeannie, a grandmother at 42
Last live in was Alexis, she was 32, I was in my mid 60s

This is Jeannie

Yum.... We have similar tastes in many things.

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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
Wrong......
112 mm =4.409".......If you had a vernier caliper you'd instantly know that

dial inch on top
metric/inch vernier in the middle (It stays on my desk)
dial metric on bottom
The 2 dial calipers stay in the workshop

I stand corrected. I ride a a Dragster and the spec of 116mm is ~4.5". In any case, a little too lose is better than too tight. At least for drive chains.

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:25 PM
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True.



However I'm suggesting the master link used may have been wrong between the 520, 525 and 530 chains which all have the same "pitch" but vary in width.


If someone went with a master link outside of those three then yes it wouldn't even turn and varies by 1/8". A mismatch within those could work but result in very out of spec chain movement.


My wording could have been more precise.



Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
WTF???
The pitches vary by 1/8"......
With the wrong master link the chain won't even go on the sprocket

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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 10:38 PM
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airjawed;
Bet you can't rivet a 525 chain with a 520 master link......without leaving the O-rings out
Likewise a 530 master link would look stupid on a 525 chain.......

Still waiting for the OP to say how many times the chain gets tight in 1 rotation of the wheel

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to everyone for replies. I’m
Assuming you will all get a notification of this reply rather than replying individually?

first of all, the cardboard has been upgraded haha! I marked these lines with digital callipers so they are accurate. After cleaning the chain again and a run out with a pillion. (Carefully) the discrepancy is now around 5 - 6mm (see attached) is this within tolerance and safe to use do you think? I mean tight spots occur anyway don’t they through regular usage.

Silentservice - you are correct, I need to do it to 116mm don’t know how I got 112mm - great spot and I will correct this.

Things ruled out so far:

- I set up a cable tie to meet my front sprocket teeth and turned the wheel, it was dead on. I think I can rule out the output shaft and front sprocket. (See attached screen shot of the slow mo video I did) also DB link below post to view the vid.

- For the rear I tried to use the calliper method but can’t get enough of an accurate reading so will try to get a cable tie or something to touch the front teeth between the chain and roll the wheel around to see if there is a misalignment.

- I do have radial play on the Cush drive.I understand this to be normal. (Talking mm)
These were replaced 200 miles ago at MV dealer and he also gave the rear hub a strip and re-grease. It got the okay.

- This video shows it running on the stand. Is this normal for the chain to bounce a bit like that?

Below is a link to the Dropbox file with the photos and vid. (Download top right for full quality) hopefully it will work, let me know if not.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rsvesnwzf...sM8U3PUfa?dl=0

Thanks again for all your help!

Dan
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:27 AM
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You got the 112 mm number because that is what the swingarm sticker says.

Since the manual shows it as 116 I would go with 116 though because while riding and with suspension compressed the chain will tighten.

Run the chain loose. You should also check the slack. Slack should always be present by hand... maybe 1-1.5 inches.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airjawed View Post
You should also check the slack. Slack should always be present by hand... maybe 1-1.5 inches.
What in the world are you talking about here?
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