Idle adjustment - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Idle adjustment

Hey all,

I'd prefer a slightly higher idle setting that the Stradale has; is this a plug in to adjust or is there an adjuster for us mortals (I can't see it in the manual)?

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 08:08 PM
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I dont think there is an adjustment, possibly with a software update but not generally
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 08:25 PM
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I'm not sure about the MV 3 cylinders (or the newer 4 cylinders) but most EFI bikes these days with adjustable idle speed set it with air bleed screws, the same ones used to synch the throttles. Screw them out to raise speed...turn them all exactly the same amount lest you throw the synch out.

Many of the Ride by Wire bikes, and many current Jap bikes have a computer (ECU) operated Idle Speed Control valve that opens and closes an air bleed to the throttle bodies. The ECU controls idle speed and you can't change it without going into the ECU mapping.

There is probably a butterfly stop screw on the throttle bodies that can be adjusted, but is not supposed to be. If you touch it the TPS will have to be reset. I don't recommend touching it at all if you don't know what you are doing.

What does your tach show as idle speed? Why do you think it is too slow? Does the engine stall? 1100~1400 is a pretty standard speed. My SPR 750 is at 1500, but as a track bike it seldom sits at idle.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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All good info - thanks.

It shows as within spec. The CB1300 that the Strad has replaced had a simple knurled adjuster but that's a 2005 with relatively simple EFI.

I prefer slightly higher idle as I demonstrate low speed maneuvering as part of my Instructor role (and a little cheat) to allow for an easier time and a little less clutch slip due to the practicalities of demonstrating this multiple times.

It sounds like an impossible for me but I may as a tech to do this when in the shop sometime - 200 rpm would so it .... it's difficult to see whether it's currently on 1200 or 1400 on the tacho which is the spec. Roll on a little more throttle is the simple solution and probably stick it in rain mode; I'm always in sport.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 05:50 AM
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A couple of things: First is that Ed is right about idles adjustment. Furthermore, the idle speed you see on the tach is not the same as idle speed that the bike displays while hooked up to the computer. The spec for the bike, and to where it is adjusted, is the computer indication.

Second, and more important to me, why would you "cheat" a complex control scheme like slow speed maneuvers for your students? They will not be able to replicate your results and will likely get frustrated.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 06:44 AM
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You could advance the "choke" lever on the throttle...it is actually just a fast idle setting, not an actual "choke"...... lock it down and your idle will always be high.

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 08:59 AM
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Dont mess with the bleed screws unless absolutely necessay. Like Ed said use the fast idle thumb control on the throttle grip side
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
You could advance the "choke" lever on the throttle...it is actually just a fast idle setting, not an actual "choke"...... lock it down and your idle will always be high.
My Stradale is long gone.
Back at the dealer now for Ä6 500 at 36 000 km (22 000 miles)
The seller logged about 5 000 km in 2 yrs!
This Stradale had no fuel gauge on the dash
but also no "choke" lever, button, or whatchamacallit on the throttle.


Did I miss another Stradale useful part?


Also
to show low speed handling for tyro bikers
making the idle higher was certainly a clever trick on granpa's bikes.
Could be better to teach for the actual generation of bikes and bikers on how to use different engine mapping or customizing existing maps.
Changing idle speed on a fuel map isn't a quick & dirty cheap chinese made screwdriver job.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 08:54 AM
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Ahhhh !!!! I hadn't looked at a newer model closely enough to see no "choke" lever. The ride by wire bikes use the ECU to automatically lift the throttle for fast idle during warm up.... I should have realized that would be the case.

OK.... you can't change the idle speed without reprogramming the software.

The ECU will control idle speed to maintain what the design engineers specified. This is the case with almost all current generation bikes, either ride by wire via commands from ECU or cable throttles via idle speed control air bleed valves...again, controlled by ECU

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
A couple of things: First is that Ed is right about idles adjustment. Furthermore, the idle speed you see on the tach is not the same as idle speed that the bike displays while hooked up to the computer. The spec for the bike, and to where it is adjusted, is the computer indication.

Second, and more important to me, why would you "cheat" a complex control scheme like slow speed maneuvers for your students? They will not be able to replicate your results and will likely get frustrated.
I was expecting this AND AGREE - the thought is more out of mechanical sympathy; I would perform this much longer in a month than the typical rider would do in several years so a couple of hundred extra RPM would help but are not needed / essential. An analogy might be that the off road bike comes set up with the brake and clutch levers parallel to the road yet, to ride standing up it is not ideal but it can be done. An adjustment us usually made for the standing rider with them pointing further down; for the purpose the bike can be made more task specific by a minor adjustment.

It's unclear from the comments whether the idle shown and the 'actual' idle speed would read high / low or accurately so I don't know if I am on the low or high side of spec; I'll remain in spec when I get the bike checked for recalls.

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