New service bulletin for three cylinder models? - Page 10 - MVAgusta.net
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post #91 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 10:28 AM
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You know that oil degrades rubber, right?

Yes, but they are running in an oil bath environment.....depends on the rubber formulation.

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post #92 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 10:49 AM
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Yes, but they are running in an oil bath environment.....depends on the rubber formulation.
The rear cush rubbers are in an oil bath?

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post #93 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
You know that oil degrades rubber, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
Yes, but they are running in an oil bath environment.....depends on the rubber formulation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silentservice703 View Post
The rear cush rubbers are in an oil bath?
Ok, so I am an idiot. I thought we were talking about the rear cush drive rubbers. I am still not used to talking about CLUTCH BASKET cush drive rubbers.

Sorry...go back to the intelligent thread already in progress.
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post #94 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 06:26 PM
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I am encountering some type of problem, and bear with me since this is the first time I've disassembled the clutch on this bike.

I'm placing the clutch cover back on and my problem now appears that there is too much slack in my clutch cable. Of course, I never even touched the clutch cable. The cover is making contact with the center pin on the bearing inside. The outside metal lever which connects to the clutch cable on the exterior of the clutch cover, I connect and then swing around in order to latch onto the pin and the lever rests pointing in the direction of the engine. I attach the cable, there is no resistance at all. There is no 'pull' from the clutch. Did I screw something up in the reassembly? I made certain to go over everything twice when seating all of the disks. Did I over or under torque the center nut?

Should the center clutch pin want to normally pull back in the direction of the engine? I can move it in and out with some resistance (with the cover off).

One thing I forgot to mention is that when reassembling the clutch, the pusher plate does spin freely. I have to use a clutch tool in order to hold it in place to tight the 6 screws. I do remember NOT having to do this in order to remove them, thus the pusher plate stayed in place on its own. What am I missing here?

2015 F3 800

Last edited by Spark; 04-28-2019 at 08:17 PM.
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post #95 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 06:59 AM
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You have put something together wrong.... take it all apart. Study the parts diagram or the engineering drawing of the assembly in the service manual...start over.
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post #96 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spark View Post
I am encountering some type of problem, and bear with me since this is the first time I've disassembled the clutch on this bike.

I'm placing the clutch cover back on and my problem now appears that there is too much slack in my clutch cable. Of course, I never even touched the clutch cable. The cover is making contact with the center pin on the bearing inside. The outside metal lever which connects to the clutch cable on the exterior of the clutch cover, I connect and then swing around in order to latch onto the pin and the lever rests pointing in the direction of the engine. I attach the cable, there is no resistance at all. There is no 'pull' from the clutch. Did I screw something up in the reassembly? I made certain to go over everything twice when seating all of the disks. Did I over or under torque the center nut?

Should the center clutch pin want to normally pull back in the direction of the engine? I can move it in and out with some resistance (with the cover off).

One thing I forgot to mention is that when reassembling the clutch, the pusher plate does spin freely. I have to use a clutch tool in order to hold it in place to tight the 6 screws. I do remember NOT having to do this in order to remove them, thus the pusher plate stayed in place on its own. What am I missing here?
Did you put the 6 springs back when putting the clutch back together? Sorry if it sounds obvious, but it honestly sounds like you didn't?
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post #97 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 09:29 AM
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Did you put the 6 springs back when putting the clutch back together? Sorry if it sounds obvious, but it honestly sounds like you didn't?
Yes of course.

Thinking about it last night I'm betting that possibly I overtorqued the 32mm nut, and I will also try reseating the 6 springs again in a more even fashion since I remembered I didn't do this on the springs fitting to the pusher plate. I'll report back results tonight or tomorrow.

If anyone has a moment and willing to do this for me, whenever you remove your clutch cover, does the center pin have significant resistance if you try pulling it out or pushing it in? I know the springs should be keeping the pusher plate in place but on mine it's able to be spun freely, and that's what has me thinking the 32mm nut may be overtorqued.

2015 F3 800

Last edited by Spark; 04-29-2019 at 09:36 AM.
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post #98 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 05:56 PM
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Not sure over tightening the center nut that secures the clutch assembly to the transmission shaft could cause what you are describing.

If anything, it would lock the basket and hub together, rendering the clutch inoperative (would never disengage). But you would have to massively over tighten, deforming internal parts, to do that.

If the pressure plate is rotating freely when you try to tighten the spring screws then the clutch is slipping completely....no friction occurring within the plate stack that transfers power from the basket (driven by the crankshaft) to the hub (driving the transmission shaft).

You have something not assembled properly...like you left out a plate??? Take it all apart and start over.

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post #99 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 07:51 PM
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I have not had time to completely retry the build again, just got it disassembled a bit. I have come to the conclusion however that the center pin was stuck inside too stiffly in order to be causing the issue I described, so when I go through everything again and reassemble I'll try to see what is causing this. I have all the friction and steel discs in the basket correctly, there is nothing missing. I did place a bit of oil on the friction discs when I put them back in, so that could easily be the reason why the pusher plate is spinning now. When it is disassembled now with the center nut removed, yet the basket is still in place, I can easily slide that center pin in and out of where it fits, so if that center nut torque did not do it, then the only other thing I can think of is maybe lubing the circular bearing it fits inside and try again.

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post #100 of 102 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 07:49 PM
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I've determined my problem. My pusher plate is not making physical contact with the outer most friction disk when I go to reassemble everything. There is like a 2mm gap. If you take a look at this pic showing everything installed correctly, mine has a gap that is not allowing the pusher plate to make contact, so I'm continuing the troubleshooting of why.



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