More electrical F3 issues - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2018, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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More electrical F3 issues

Last year my 2013 suffered from minor melting of the main harness and after i repairs the harness i heatshield the hell out of it. This summer my break light seems to be stuck on. Even stranger it is directly effected by the heat. After riding again today wile it was hot i removed the fairings and gas tank to see wile the break like was stuck on if i can find a short or move the harness around to get the light to go on and off. With no luck whatsoever. The only thing i found is as it cooled with my garage fan on the bike slowly i was able to get the light to flicker with the front or rear break until it cooled enough to work properly again. Has anyone had a similar issue? Should i just replace the entire harness at this point.?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 01:50 AM
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Could be your front or rear brake light switch. Why would you replace the entire harness if the brake lights run on their own circuit?

Check the rear brake switch and front brake switch. My guess is it could be the rear as it sits close to the motor and exposure to heat.

Think the service book shows you how to test them.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 09:28 AM
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Sounds like heat expansion is closing the switch as PTsalas suggests. You can just unplug the switch as an easy test.

I would think rear is most likely for obvious reasons.

How is the rear brake working?? If the master cylinder piston is being partly depressed by mis-adjusted brake lever the light drag created on the brake pads will heat the fluid and slowly apply the brakes. But eventually you would have a locked up rear wheel. I would think you would notice that.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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I will check the switches today, I am considering replacing the harness since last year several wires where melted im hoping this is not a similar issue. Both brakes work as normal, I did replace the levers last year as well but I was very particular making sure it was adjusted correctly not to apply any pressure.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered a new rear break switch to be safe since mine has seen better days. But the switch i received is exactly the same just a different connector. Does anyone know if i can just modify the old connector to fit the new switch? Reason being the cost to return this overseas would cost more then double for the part itself.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 12:54 PM
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Pictures would help....

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 06:36 PM
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Certainly...if it is just a different connector you could easily cut and splice the connector...or go to Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories and get a matching connector to install on the new switch.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Yea i was thinking of just splicing in the connector of the old switch. I really doubt it’s a different switch in any way. It’s exactly the same except for the connector. I finished ask in case someone knew something before i start cutting.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed, Thanks for the input. I used the F4 heat shield and just replaced the cheap switch.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 03:11 PM
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Fwiw after washing my front brake switch sticks on sometimes. I remove the switch and actuate the push button a few times then all well.
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