Coolant leaked from hose-F3 Rivale - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 04:39 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant leaked from hose-F3 Rivale

Hi guys Just wanting to know my best course of action here. Today when I got home I noticed a small coolant leak coming from where the hose connects to the bottom of the rad. The hose was loose and as I forced it back on and better secured the connection, I managed to get a spraying of coolant across the garage. I'm not sure how long this small leak was going on for but id say I lost at least 100ml when it shot out. The levels in the bottle seem fine, still sitting well above the low mark. My concern now is how can I be sure I haven't introduced any air in to the system. Can I run it with the small hex bolt on the bottle out to release bubbles if there are any?? TIA??
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 05:37 AM
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I doubt you introduced air into the system as the coolant leaked out.... There is no vacuum in the system to pull air in, rather there is gravity pressure on the fluid in the radiator pushing it out.

You're good to go.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 05:57 AM
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what was the temp outside? Very common in hot weather riding
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 08:55 AM
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Mine would leak on very cold days until the radiator warmed up a little. Aluminum does shrink and expand a bit. I just snugged up the clamp. If you are worried about air then you could undo the radiator cap and then go through the air bleeding process. It involves filling up rad and overflow then capping. Then run bike till it is at operating temp. Tilting bike completely left and right to really get those little pockets of air out. Then letting cool and running again.

Its outlined in the service manual
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-09-2018, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, was hot, 31c. Hose had moved back off its housing. I was thinking as coolant was under pressure it should be ok.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airjawed View Post
Mine would leak on very cold days until the radiator warmed up a little. Aluminum does shrink and expand a bit. I just snugged up the clamp. If you are worried about air then you could undo the radiator cap and then go through the air bleeding process. It involves filling up rad and overflow then capping. Then run bike till it is at operating temp. Tilting bike completely left and right to really get those little pockets of air out. Then letting cool and running again.

Its outlined in the service manual
airjawed;
Where do you come up with this stuff?????
The Cripples have a radiator cap on the top of the right tank.....this is the high spot of the pressurized system
As the coolant and air expand the air is forced past the radiator cap......as the system cools, coolant is
thermosiphoned back into the radiator, replacing the air

Tilting the bike to bleed it is for 1st Gen F4s only, because of the screwed up lower radiator

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 11:33 PM
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The MV manual does not say to tilt back and forth. But my Triumph did... both bikes have cap at the highest point in the pressurized system. Looks like MV doesn't need to be tilted(according to the manual) but there is no harm done... other than a hernia possibly? I did say that it was outlined in the manual... meaning this is off the top of my head.

We all know the MV manual is perfect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
airjawed;
Where do you come up with this stuff?????
The Cripples have a radiator cap on the top of the right tank.....this is the high spot of the pressurized system
As the coolant and air expand the air is forced past the radiator cap......as the system cools, coolant is
thermosiphoned back into the radiator, replacing the air

Tilting the bike to bleed it is for 1st Gen F4s only, because of the screwed up lower radiator

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