R312 cut out. Cranks but won't start - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
R312 cut out. Cranks but won't start

It died on me during a rideout.

There is no whir from the fuel pump when the bike is switched on. Instrument panel does the usual tacho sweep etc, the bike cranks over well. A couple of times the bike has continued cranking (for a second) after i have let go of the starter button, and then it has done another tacho sweep (not sure if that's related).

Using a multimeter I can see that the 'salmon' coloured wire leading to the pump goes live when the ignition is switched on, although it gives a voltage reading of 242V


It seems this model doesn't have a separate fuel pump relay?


What should I be looking at next.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013, 05:23 PM
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Lloyd,

Open the fuel cap and shine a torch in when you switch the ignition on. If you see fuel swirling, bubbles etc. then it will be a hose come off the pump inside the tank. It's hard to pick with the cap shut and you won't hear a whirr as it's just pumping fuel inside the tank. The clic r clamps on the hoses are shit. Could also be the filter etc. as more learned posters have mentioned. A good simple thing to check first before you start delving into more complicated areas.

Cheers

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013, 08:04 PM
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Since the fuel pump isn't working I would suspect something other than a loose or deteriorated hose. Check the fuses on the right side of the bike, 15 amp, last fuse in line.

If your bike has a tip over switch make sure it hasn't dislodged itself.

Common symptom of a bad latch relay is that the pump primes and doesn't shut off, not that it doesn't prime at all. But you could swap the power relay for the latch relay and see if the problem goes away.

242V is abnormal.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-23-2013, 08:19 PM
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I had the same problem on my SPR. I pulled off the tank and found the wiring to the fuel pump had disconnected. I soldered it back on and all was fine


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
Thanks guys. One bit of info I forgot: I hardwired the pump to the battery and it powers up normally, so isn't the fuel pipe problem.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lloyd_christmasMV View Post
A couple of times the bike has continued cranking (for a second) after i have let go of the starter button, and then it has done another tacho sweep (not sure if that's related).

Using a multimeter I can see that the 'salmon' coloured wire leading to the pump goes live when the ignition is switched on, although it gives a voltage reading of 242V
You can't get 242 volts !!! You have probably misread your self ranging voltmeter and it was actually 242 milli volts.....this would be a reading you might get when no battery power is being supplied by the system. Bad relay, blown fuse or poor wiring connection.

It is normal for the starter to keep spinning after the button is released for a couple of seconds or until the engine starts. If the tach is resetting when the starter stops spinning then your battery is probably weak.

I used to be fast....now I just dream about it.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
Many thanks guys, i've found the problem.


It was, er, , a blown fuse.


This was the first thing I checked at the side of the road, but didn't notice the break in the fuse.


Ah well, i've learned a little about my bike along the way. Cheers guys!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-24-2013, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
Also, my multimeter appears to throw out random numbers, hence the 242V
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-25-2013, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lloyd_christmasMV View Post
Also, my multimeter appears to throw out random numbers, hence the 242V
Good to hear you are sorted!!

If your multi-meter is a good one it may be self-ranging.....you have to pay careful attention to the scale it has selected or your readings can be confusing. Not unusual to get small milli-volt signals from ground circuit back feeds on power wires that are not receiving proper voltage (your blown fuse).

On the other hand....if the meter is a cheap one....well, you get what you pay for!

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