F4 Clutch requiring replacement - Page 2 - MVAgusta.net
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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nope

When my Dad and I first laid our eyes on an MV Agusta at the UK launch, we were simply blown away.................
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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People,

Have ordered some clutch parts to replace. The manual refers to a special tool. Can anyone advise what the tool looks like (I presume it's like a clutch plate with a handle welded on) and whether it is actually needed and what alternatives could be used.

Cheers











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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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any help on this would be great please people

When my Dad and I first laid our eyes on an MV Agusta at the UK launch, we were simply blown away.................
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 03:43 PM
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You only need it if you are replacing the basket.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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cheers Silent

When my Dad and I first laid our eyes on an MV Agusta at the UK launch, we were simply blown away.................
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Submariner View Post
Been out today for a quick spin. In 5th and 6th gear at around 9000 rpm
Woah there nelly! 9000 rpm in 6th - you're looking at 250km/h plus! That's some fast traffic!
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-13-2010, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
People,

Have ordered some clutch parts to replace. The manual refers to a special tool. Can anyone advise what the tool looks like (I presume it's like a clutch plate with a handle welded on) and whether it is actually needed and what alternatives could be used.

Cheers
I guess now all you have to do is figure out which way to put the clutch on. Front first or bring it in backwards.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 01:53 AM
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Question This a sound gameplan for checking clutch?

Getting into some scheduled maintenance this weekend. I'm just over 12k miles. My clutch on my 2004 Brutale has been slipping recently, so while I'm changing oil and flushing all the brake/clutch fluid, I wanted to check that the springs and plates are in good spec

Following Richard and Noel's workshop advice for QC'ing a slipping clutch:

Clutch slave:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsawkins View Post
If I were you I'd take the slave off the engine, pump the piston out and give it all a good clean. Put it back together and refill with fresh fluid. Spend the next hour bleeding it - just keep pumping that lever until the bubbles stop in the master cylinder and then proceed with a normal bleed procedure. If all that doesn't make any difference it's time to pull the clutch out...
(from this thread)

The only bit I've found in the Brutale workshop manual says "Protect the area around the fluid chamber with a cloth or paper. Remove the union and discharge the clutch fluid from the system into an appropriate container."

Anything else I should know before removing and cleaning the slave? My old bike had a cable clutch and an adjustment screw on the push rod, so fluid slave is new territory for me


Clutch springs and plates:
Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
no special tools required;
drain the oil
pull the clutch cover
remove the 4 pressure plate screws
lift the pressure plate
remove the clutch pack
measure the discs

minimum clutch disc thickness 2.8mm
check for warping

...

Noel-theknurl
Engine manual makes it sound like not all the plates will come out until removing the nut:

"Remove the disk pusher plate. Manually remove all of the attrition disks (3) that you can. Straighten the nut washer (4). Unscrew the nut using tool n79015 to hold the clutch hub still and remove it (5)..."

Do you really need to remove the safety washer and nut, or do the plates pull right out after removing the pusher plate?

Lastly -- do most people reuse the clutch cover gasket?

thanks

chris chandler
2004 Brutale S
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 05:12 AM
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Chris;
Manual is wrong or you read it wrong.......the hub nut and lock washer are INSIDE the hub, the plates and discs
are on the OUTSIDE of the hub
I doubt it's your friction discs, you may have some blue steel plates check for flatness
Bet it's your springs, check the length
Most bikes use about the same size springs, inner valve springs are a better quality than clutch springs
The cover gasket is reusable, be careful of the wiring harness on the lower left, it can ruin the gasket

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-24-2019, 08:04 AM
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No need to take the nut of, as for the gasket, leave it out completely and use good quality sealant.

F4 750 with Brutale 910S motor
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