Need advice on buying an F4 - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Need advice on buying an F4

My Kawasaki ZX-7R was stolen a few weeks ago, so it's time to buy another bike. I don't like the current generation of japanese sportbikes. I think literbikes are too powerful.

I love the F4 750. The ergo's are perfect for me, the bike is sexy as hell, and I think the engine should have about as much power as I need.

There's a dealer in NY who has an '02 F4 750 with 11K miles, asking $11K.

This seems like a decent price to me. Is it?

Also, how reliable are these bikes? Am I going to get killed on maintenance?

Any info you guys could give me about buying/owning an '02 F4 750 would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

-Pete Sperl
Brooklyn, NY
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 01:19 PM
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Just a brief history on the 750s: The first U.S. model was a year 2000 model with 124hp. The 2001 model had 127 and the 2002 model (EVOII engine) produced 137hp at the crank. I think reliability improved between the 2000 to 2002 models but do know of some 2001 owners that have had reliable bikes.

Personally, I think 11,000 miles for $11,000 is a just a little high (but not too bad) considering since 2002 there’s been the F41000S and now the R model. I sold my ’02 MV with 8,000 miles in February 2005 for $10,000, however it had a scratched fairing. By now, I think $10,000 to $10,500 may be a fair price.

Incidentally, I hear the MV dealer in Tucson, Arizona – Renaissance Motorcycles has a left over 2003 model. Perhaps you may want to call them and find out how much they’re selling their bike. If you like it, but it. If not, then use that price to get your dealer to lower their asking price.

PS: In term of maintenance, I think service intervals on the 750 were every 7,500. But I just go my F41000 and the interval look like they’re every 3,800. Has this changed from the 750? I don’t remember.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 02:38 PM
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Haha yes you will get killed with maintenance, but hey its TOTALLY WORTH IT!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Haha yes you will get killed with maintenance, but hey its TOTALLY WORTH IT!
"Oh, no it isn't!"

Si
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 02:53 PM
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LOL You're a little biased right now....aren't you Si?
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Haha yes you will get killed with maintenance, but hey its TOTALLY WORTH IT!
I fix/maintain most things myself, and from what I understand, the F4 comes apart VERY easily. So, my real question is about reliability. Are these bike going to break every 500 miles or are they good to go 10K miles without problems?

Is there anything a competent guy can't do himself on an F4?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psperl
I fix/maintain most things myself, and from what I understand, the F4 comes apart VERY easily. So, my real question is about reliability. Are these bike going to break every 500 miles or are they good to go 10K miles without problems?

Is there anything a competent guy can't do himself on an F4?
Well, what I've learned from my 750 is that it's very compact and tolerances are close. Little changes to the C0 setting have been effects on the bike. Also, if you're not careful putting the tank back on, then you'll crush the fuel coupling and have a fuel leak. Those type of things.

On the plus side, if this MV has 11,000 miles on it, it’s probably been relatively reliable.

Also, I was looking at my 1000’s manual last night and there are some tasks that indicate a special tool is necessary. I’ll post them later when I get home.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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I looked at the bike a few hours ago, and there were some things wrong with it that scare me. It had a lot of aftermarket carbon fibre which was nice. However, the carbon fibre air ducts had chips on them from the handlebars. If you turns the bars all the way in one direction, it would hit the carbon fibre air ducts and over time there were some chips in the fibre. The rear tire hugger also touches the rear wheel and is slightly worn at the edges from the contact with the tires. This is minor since I can remove the hugger, but its annoying.

The biggest problem was that the lower right fairing had two cracks in it and is generally messed up. It's kind of in the wrong position and the rear brake lever rubs against the fairing. The lower fairing is also in contact with the exhaust. Another customer in the dealership said that he thinks if I replaced the lower fairing, everything would be ok. The upper fairing is 100%. Is it true that if the lower fairing is messed up it affects the position of the upper fairing?

So I offered the guy $9k, he was asking $10,500.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 06:32 PM
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You'll understand why there are chips in the air ducts once you try doing a U turn on an MV....LOL
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-24-2006, 06:56 PM
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On the 750 model, when you turn the handle bars to full lock, the bars would hit the air ducts. It's been modified so it's hard to tell what's going on with the carbon air ducts and rear hugger. As for the cracks, are you referring to the belly pan? If so, my guess is the bike was lowered for a shorter rider (like me) and probably hit some speed bumps. It's a three piece fairing: top, middle, and belly pan. Usually, if the belly ban is damage, I don't think it's a problem to the upper/mid fairing since they have their own mounting points for the Duz fasteners.

I don't know, if I were looking at the bike, I'd want it mechanically inspected and even then pay no more than $10,000 - and I'd still be shopping around.
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