exhaust removal r312 - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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exhaust removal r312

hi - i am trying to remove the exhausts for the first time on my r312 and can't get the headers off(all one peice) - looks like the rad has got to move forward but how? come on guys hows it done???
colin
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 09:23 AM
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A sawz-all is very quick and effective....

I havent done an MV yet but pretty much every other bike I have done headers on the radiator had to be at least unbolted if not completly removed. Good luck, have fun!!!

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07 MV F4 1000R, 02 Ducati 998, 04 GSXR 1k Race bike, 97 KDX 220SR dirt bike, 05 Suzuki LTR450 quad
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 09:31 AM
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it can be done by loosening the radiator (thats how i did mine)

or you can remove it completely...but be aware of the proper method or tool for reuse of the hose clamps...

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 10:05 AM
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No sweat...

begin by removing the silencers from the mid pipe, then there are two exhaust header/manifold retainer bolts to remove and the whole thing comes out, you don't even have to loosen the radiator.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-22-2010, 11:53 AM
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Just to be safe I do remove the radiator. It gives you all the room you need and more. I know that may seem over the top but it is possible to bend the upper fan bracket and this can allow the fan blades to contact and eventually cut the radiator. I know it's happened to one forum member who is significantly more talented at motorcycle maintenance that I am. That's the only reason I mention it.
I'm not saying it can't be done by either not removing or moving the radiator forward slightly, I'm just suggesting you may want to consider full removal of the radiator.

You did ask so.................
Remove the key from the ignition.
Remove the belly pan and both side fairings. (17 Dzus fastners).
Remove the top fairing (2 X 5 mm allen key bolts, each bolt goes into what I call an electrical cover)
Remove the electrical covers (3 X 4 mm allen key bolts each side - the short bolt is at the front, two longer bolts at the rear - important for reassembly). NOTE: You will see that the indicators are connected to the wiring loom under the electrical covers, just unplug them.
Remove the air ducts (1 X 8 mm bolt at the front of each duct), then just carefully jiggle the duct free from the air box). You may find that the thin black "rubber bands" that seal the air intake to the air box may have perished. You can super glue them back together if that's the case as a short term fix, or order some new ones before taking on this job.
Make sure the bike is at room temp as rot coolant & radiators can be dangerous.
Remove the key guard (2 X 4mm alen key bolts) and then remove the black plastic radiator cap underneath.
Drain the coolant from the water pump. Store the coolant away from children or pats. Have a large clean drip tray handy and position it a little out from the bike as the coolant flies out from the drain a good foot and a half when you remove that drain bolt.
This will remove most but not all coolant from the radiators & coolong system. Be aware that as you remove the radiators you may spill what ramains in the radiators so position the drip tray so as to catch any coolant.
The top radiator comes off first. It's held in place by four radiator hoses (two each side). The clips can be removed and reused. There is a tool for doing this, I use a small set of needle noe pliers. Undo the 4 clips and unkook the hoses. On the left hand ride - LHS -(riders perspective) you will see an electrical wire connected to a temp sensor half way up the top radiator. It's held in place by a C shaped stainless steel clip. Carefully remove the clip and unplug the sensor.
Two bolts on the LHS hold the top radiator in place. Top bolt goes to a bracket connected to the frame and the bottom bolt connects the top to the bottom radiator. Remove the 2 bolts. Head over to the RHS and unplug the two fans - the connectors run up the side of the top radiator. While there you will see that the top radiator is now only being held in place by a rubber mounted bracket on top of the radiator. Carefully and slowly slide the radiator towards yourself (to the right) to remove the top radiator. Remember to watch for spilling coolant. If you have a friend to help you with this part thaen it's just a bit easier and safer.

From memory the bottom radiator is now supported by 1 hose (RHS) and 1 alloy bracket which has 3 rubber mounted holes the connect the rear of the radiator to the front of the engine block.
Remove the clip from the hose, watch out for coolant drips again. You can slide the rubber mounted bracket (towards the left) to complete the removal of the bottom radiator.
I think that's it.

Work your way backwards to reasemble the cooling system. Safely discard the coolant if it requires replacing but measure the volume so you know roughly how much to put back in.

Things to be aware of during reassembly: Do not over tighten the coolant drain bolt, if you have a torque wrench go to 10 or 12 Nm. Check & recheck that you are happy with the clips that hold all hoses in place. Plug those fans back onto the loom. Plug the indicators back onto the loom. Check that your indicators all work. Pour the coolant in slowly only fill to the bottom line. Check the coolant level after running the bike for 20 to 30 seconds while looking for leaks. Check the level again and fill or remove to the bottom (minimum) line on the coolant reservoir.

Good luck.
Dave.

Last edited by The_castle; 01-22-2010 at 12:01 PM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-23-2010, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for that guys very helpful - system now off the bike - i managed to push the alloy plate that castle mentions off its mounting to the engine block and this allowed the bottom rad to move forward - dunno if it will be taht easy on reassembly though?
colin
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