Best way to suspend front of bike to work on forks? - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2006, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Best way to suspend front of bike to work on forks?

I'm sending my forks out to get the stock bottoms surgically removed and repalced with radial mounts and... I'm thinking I can suspend the bike with rope from a beam above and leave it there for a week, or I can buy some pit-bull stands to hold the frame.. maybe when the panels are off, I can jack it up from under, but I'm not sure I really trust that .. What is the best solution for keeping the front up with no forks??

Thanks-

Coleman.


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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2006, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Col3man
I'm sending my forks out to get the stock bottoms surgically removed and repalced with radial mounts and... I'm thinking I can suspend the bike with rope from a beam above and leave it there for a week, or I can buy some pit-bull stands to hold the frame.. maybe when the panels are off, I can jack it up from under, but I'm not sure I really trust that .. What is the best solution for keeping the front up with no forks??

Thanks-

Coleman.
I think i've seen these front stands that have a part that goes up under the nose somehow. Not sure, I need one too to take the front wheel off.

matt

- Matt H.


'05 F4 1000S
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2006, 11:24 PM
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A front stand lifts the bike from the lower fork clamp, see them in the paddocks on race/track days.

Other methods sound a bit dodgey!
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2006, 11:29 PM
 
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The MV has no hole in the lower triple for that type os front stand.

Best bet is to hook straps to the upper triple and hang from the beam like you thought.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-14-2006, 11:49 PM
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Hanging from overhead with a hoist works well. BUT DO NOT hang from the upper triple if you plan on fork removal. The upper triple is held on in three places....both left and right forks via the pinch bolts and third, the pinch bolt in the center that actually pinches the center nut (steering stem nut, spanner type with the many holes). The steering stem nut does NOT hold the top clamp in place. The center pinch of the top clamp simply secures the stem nut from moving. If you hang from the top clamp, and remove the forks, then all the weight will be on the pinch area around the steering nut. THe steering nut is in fact underneath the top clamp, even though you can see it.

Run webbing through the frame behind the steering stem....you may need to remove air box for this.

FWIW...I use 1 inch tube webbing, previously used as rock climbing anchors for attachment to frames. YOu can buy it by the foot at any climbing outfitter, and works great for making your own soft ties etc.
Be sure you know your webbing knots though.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-15-2006, 12:04 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdog998
Hanging from overhead with a hoist works well. BUT DO NOT hang from the upper triple if you plan on fork removal. The upper triple is held on in three places....both left and right forks via the pinch bolts and third, the pinch bolt in the center that actually pinches the center nut (steering stem nut, spanner type with the many holes). The steering stem nut does NOT hold the top clamp in place. The center pinch of the top clamp simply secures the stem nut from moving. If you hang from the top clamp, and remove the forks, then all the weight will be on the pinch area around the steering nut. THe steering nut is in fact underneath the top clamp, even though you can see it.

Run webbing through the frame behind the steering stem....you may need to remove air box for this.

FWIW...I use 1 inch tube webbing, previously used as rock climbing anchors for attachment to frames. YOu can buy it by the foot at any climbing outfitter, and works great for making your own soft ties etc.
Be sure you know your webbing knots though.
Damn your right, I forgot all about that. Nice catch
I'm a dumbass
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-15-2006, 12:26 PM
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i agree
hang it from the beams then put a jack under the front just to stop it wobbling around
way i do it is rear stand then balance the bike jack it up higher than what you want
then strap it to the beams then lower to take weight on the straps

jas
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 07:59 AM
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I built a contraption out of 2x4s and a 2x6 that works pretty good:





Note I'm using straps under the bottom triple clamp, it's pretty solid.

I held up the bars with safety wire, seemed to work OK. Same for the calipers.

I have a small bottle jack under then engine mostly to keep things stable, not really for lifting. It won't work for lifting much. I just had the bike on my front and rear stand, tied it up, then took the stand out and dropped the forks out.

I've heard that an 8 foot step ladder works good for this as well.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acruhl
I built a contraption out of 2x4s and a 2x6 that works pretty good:





Note I'm using straps under the bottom triple clamp, it's pretty solid.

I held up the bars with safety wire, seemed to work OK. Same for the calipers.

I have a small bottle jack under then engine mostly to keep things stable, not really for lifting. It won't work for lifting much. I just had the bike on my front and rear stand, tied it up, then took the stand out and dropped the forks out.

I've heard that an 8 foot step ladder works good for this as well.

Very nice.

Couple questions.....

Is that pressure treated pine or just plain southern yellow pine?
If not treated, do you have a termite contract?
Nails or screws?
and I see that the frame is basically built around the bike, how do you plan to remove the bike once reassembled. Will you burn the woodwork off?
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-16-2006, 09:41 AM
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Regular pine that you get at Home Depot. Screwed it together with drywall screws.

The only caveat on this is just to be smart about it. The A frame 2x4s are just touching the floor, and also just touching the bottom of the 2x6, which is flush with the shorty 2x4s holding the top of the A frame together.

What I'm getting at is try to get the most of the load going through the wood and not the screws.

I'm not 100% convinced this is a perfect design (I know nothing structural about wood), but I think it's fine for this job. There's not really that much weight on it after the forks and wheel come off.

It sat like this a few weeks while waiting for Thermosman to do the forks. No problems. I even worked on it and put on the rearsets while it was like this.
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