F4 2000 Front brake braided hose connection - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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F4 2000 Front brake braided hose connection

Hi All,


Over the past few weeks I have been replacing a number of fasteners on my F4 2000 model. It has been satisfying and the bike looks alot better.


As part of this I managed to make a balls up of replacing one of the four bolts that holds the two halves of the front right hand brake caliper to eachother. As a result of this I had to remove the caliper, repair it and then refit it to the bike.


When connecting the braided brake hose into the inlet port on the caliper, I was surprised at the torque rating of 18nM but also the fact that the 'running union' nut (which the braided brake hose passes through) did not have a copper 'crush washer'. When tightening the nut, the nut itself goes from being 'untight' to 'tight' within a half a turn, a bit like a spark plug I suppose.


Can anyone advise whether their F4 caliper inlet braided hose has a 'crush washer' fitted? The maintenance manual and exploded diagrams suggest that one should not be fitted.


The reason I ask is that even with an unnerving amount of torque applied to the nut there is a very very light weep of fluid when applying maximum force on the brake lever.


Many thanks








Sub

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 06:51 PM
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Never personally seen a brake union without a copper washer either side. I stand to be corrected. Regardless of the manual pics I'd be sourcing some copper washers, heat them cherry red, quench them and fit them. You shouldn't then need undue torque to seal the system.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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thanks Deano,

Of course the fitting I am refering to is not a 'banjo' bolt.

I have attached some photos.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 08:03 PM
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Gotcha now, a picture's worth a .... ! Yeah, that should seal when nipped up tight. A few turns of thread tape should fix that although I'd start it halfway up toward the nut. Don't want any small pieces getting into the caliper if you're taking it off and on for any reason. Others more knowledgeable with these calipers and thread sealant can pitch in now.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 01:00 AM
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I will have a look when I get home tonight. Otherwise I would suggest some thread sealant much like is used on the bleed nipples. Pretty easy to get your hands on at any auto parts store.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 10:22 AM
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The taper at the base is supposed to be the seal. There is nothing for a sealing washer to seal against. As Deano suggested, use a wrap of teflon thread tape and be happy.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2019, 09:57 PM
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Mine is the same as yours.

If the thread tape is not your thing just find a high temp thread sealant.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-29-2019, 07:52 PM
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Yeah .. No copper stuff there -- I went and ordered at set of Goodridge "Racing" hoses for my F4 - This was to be able to run one straight line form the master cylinder to each of the calipers - and use a titanium dual banjo bolt with bleed valve at the top- Like I had on a couple of Ducatis-
However -- the set I got form Goodridge had the wrong threading on all the fittings -- M10x1 -- like for a Ducati -- I wrote to Goodridge more than once, about this Faulty "kit" and they never stooped to give me an answer -- IMHO they should have replaced the kit with one with the correct M10x1,5 fittings -- So now i have a set that fits on a Ducati ...

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 03:20 AM
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Thumbs up ?

Rarely have I ever seen so many stupid comments about connecting brake lines........

1.Teflon tape is ONLY FOR USE ON TAPERED THREADS.....LIKE WATER PIPES.....IT DOESN'T WORK ON STRAIGHT THREADS......
it just lubes them
2. ALL PRESSURE FITTINGS USE TAPERED SEATS, SEALING WASHERS OR O-RINGS, think AN fittings used on all aircraft and race cars
3. God, help your neighbors if you use welding gasses........2,600psi/180bar, no wrench needed....tighten the nut with your fingers, then turn the regulator less than 1/8 turn.....I wouldn't let you around scuba tanks at all
4. motorcycle brake line pressure......I measured it at ~275psi in a stoppie on my Aprilia RSVR, so it's about like a propane tank with an O-ring.......and you have leaks??????

DKDravis;
M10x1,5 is a DIN structural bolt thread, Brembo uses M10x1.25 bolts, a JIS standard for mounting, because the Italians don't want to use German bolts Continental Euros use M10x1.0 for brakes.....who knows what the Brits are using
The Rice Rocketeers use M10x1.25 and M10x1.5 for brake fittings
Yes, metric stuff is all standard......

My box of brake line fittings......the bottom one in my hand is a Lockheed brake caliper to M10x1.0 adapter....we had them made

MV/Brembo clutch slave bleed fitting ........it seals on the fucking taper, not the threads......LOOK at it, if it didn't seal on the taper it wouldn't work because of where the hole is

From '65 to '69 l worked in the Engineering Dept of HiShear Corp and aerospace fastener company......
Guess what section? Installation Tools, so try explaining nuts, bolts and production wrenching systems to me

One of 2 people that didn't wear a suit or tie......if I needed something made, I'd go into the Engineering machine shop and make it myself, fuck paperwork
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2019, 07:58 PM
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Bow your heads -- The god of all things mechanical has spoken -- Again ...
You are not worthy -- just face it ..

@Knurl the curmudgeon: I do not posses your infinite wisdom, gained from countless years in the magical realm of aviation mechanics .. But I DO know how to measure a thread pitch - I can even turn such magical stuff on my lowly Colchester -- in Grade 5 Titanium If my tools are sharp enough -- I may even possess such things as DIN thread tolerance sheets and other esotheric writings for the initiated ..
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