dead f4 - Page 2 - MVAgusta.net
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 06:55 AM
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That relay is the LATCH RELAY and is identical to the Power Relay on the left side of the heat protector.

I would switch them. The bike probably won't run, but you should see the dash and lights etc. The Power Relay provides power to the fuel pump and injectors.

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Those relays are around $10.00 at your local auto parts store.
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-03-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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I torn the entire bike down to frame and engine - all wiring intact. I have replaced the two relays at the rear of the bike, mounted adjacent to the ecu. I have tested all the connectors, fuses , and relays on each side of the bike . Everything is as it should be. Bike is still dead. Battery is showing 12.8 amps - and the one time I was able to rap onto one of the relays at the rear, the dash lit up and the bike started ( so the battery, new, is a non issue ). The only thing remains is the key switch - but it seems odd that it would stop anything from even lighting up on the bike. I could understand if one of the wires leading from the switch was corroded and the circuit that addresses the fuel pump wouldn't turn on - but for the entire bike to be dead....nothing. No clicks, no relays energized, no lights , signals. So with it being a primary open circuit - what can remain? I can tear any engine apart, repair it and rebuild it.....bike, car, boat....whatever. This electrical end has always held me a bay - that side of my brain does not work! Any help would be appreciated.
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 05:49 AM
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Why would you think the key switch would be odd to cause your symptoms? That is exactly what it could be. The key switch connects the battery to everything that needs electrical power.
The only electrical connection the key switch does not control is the power supply to the dash that keeps the clock running.

You describe a totally dead electrical circuit...no lights, no pump, no anything when the key is turned on..... well, sounds like the key switch is not making that connection.

Easy to test with an ohmmeter.

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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 05:58 AM
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Good morning Wm. Douglas Beims...can I assume you go by Doug or Douglas?

I'd like to address a couple of "housekeeping" items and then dig into your electrical issue.

First, would you be so kind as to add your bike to your signature line. Things get lost several pages into a thread and a ready reference at the bottom of each post makes it easier for those of us trying to help. To add your bike: TOOLS (at the page top)>USER CP>EDIT SIGNATURE (in the left menu)>Fill in the box and save.

Second is a question: Do you have the FREE manuals for your bike in PDF form that Donsy has made available? If not, go here: Team Double 3 Racing | MV Agusta and find what you need...then give Donsy a virtual beer for creating the repository!

On to your problem. When discussing electrical issues, accuracy counts. There are differences in design between years and models that are subtle but significant. 2006/2007 S/R can make a world of difference.

For the record you have listed the bike as a 2006 F4 1000S. Is that the correct year and model?

I am going to start with some simple, yet prolific issues when an MV won't start. Please do not take offence, but I am going to correct some terminology in the hopes of creating an accurate conversation for future discussion.

1. The headlights on MV motorcycles do not "burn dimly" with the key in the ignition and on. THere are two small Running LIghts that do light up, but the Main Beam does not com on until the bike has started.
2. If you tested your battery and it only stores 12.8 "amps", then it is obviously trash. I can assume you meant 12.8VDC and move on from there to state that a fully charged 12V motorcycle battery in good condition chemically will measure at 13.2 VDC at rest.
3. In your situation, after reading your posts several times, there is something that changed while the bike was in storage after the battery failed.

I have one question that needs an accurate answer before going down the Rabbit Hole:

It seems all you did was start the bike every-so-often until the battery could no longer sustain starting current and then it no longer started.

Did you do ANYthing else to the bike during that period?

Thanks for reading,
Chuck
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:23 AM
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Send me a PM, depending on where in MD you are I may be able to come by for a look one evening.

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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:45 AM
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I'm not an electrical genius either but I can suggest to not "wash" your bikes with water. Unless you've been in a mud puddle water is really unnecessary.
I NEVER use water on my bikes and they are always spotless clean. Detail spray and a micro fiber towel (or rag).
If you do feel that water is needed I would further suggest Di electric grease be applied to all connections. This will almost certainly prevent water intrusion but more importantly corrosion.
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 09:12 AM
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It doesn't quite sound like this. But have you checked the stator and RR?

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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Chuck and everyone else for the detailed responses . I have gotten my site in order, and the bikes are now listed. My F4 is a 2005 - and the following conditions apply to the bike:

It was on a tender all winter, with a new battery installed last fall. The bike was started every week, and was taken out when the weather permitted. I had to move the bikes to a storage facility - due to an unforeseen move ( TMI to discuss). The bike's battery was tended to and the bike started on first turnover ever other week. I moved it out of the storage area - and it was totally dusty and grimy - the storage facility had a hummer ( the real one) parked next to all my bikes and the owner started it up on regular basis, spewing diesel all over all my bikes. I made the mistake of taking the bike to the self service car wash and proceeded to wash it off. The bike was trailered to my new residence, and I attempted to start it several days later. The bike was dead - battery tested and was showing 12.8/12.9volts. Usually, when it drops below that level and I have to replace the battery, I get something, a dim light on the dash, lights on the gauges, but not enough to turn it over. This go round, the bike had nothing. I removed the tail, started looking at the two relays on the back, and rapped one with the butt end of a screw driver. Lights on the dash on, bike turns over immediately......I am a happy camper. Next day, 75 degrees (f) outside, awesome day for riding.... I go so start the bike, its dead again. same symptoms. I rap the riders right relay, nothing....I unplug the battery tender, plug it back in, rap the relay....lights on, bike starts. Then I start thinking I might be stranded. Took the brutale out for a ride instead. Next day - dead, and nothing since. I though that the last rap on the relay might have done it in.....so I purchase not one, but several just in case. I replaced both the left and right relays....nothing. I take one of the old relays apart - its fine - no burnt contacts - and test it was a battery and it works flawlessly. So , those relays are good. I move to the relays on the left side of the bike. I check the main fuse - the blades of the 40amp breaker are fine but come apart from the plastic sheath as i remove it, so I replace it. A slight bit of corrosion, cleaned it, and all contacts look fine. I look at the next block, which I believe is the turn signal flasher, bypass that and then go to the front most relay. I check for corrosion, and I tested the relay. I am no electrical wiz - so this is where I have issues. I don't know how to determine if this relay is faulty - i don't even know what this relay is for, but it has constant power to it. It seems like these five blade relays have the power at 12 oclock, the 3 and 9 oclock blades are the lower voltage switch portion of the relay, and the 6 oclock blade is the power that then feeds through the relay. Please accept my ignorance on these issues - electrical is not my strongpoint. I had weird readings from this relay, both from a voltage and from a continuity standpoint. But i have no clue. I then checked the wires headed to the key switch. The red feed coming to the connector was tested and read 12.8v . how do i test the wiring coming back down from the switch. Should i be showing some form of continuity from the power feed to one of the other lines when the key is turned on? If so, i am showing nothing. Am i to be measuring resistance in that switch? Any and all help will be appreciated - and again, i apologize for my ignorance on these issues. And Hello to Donzi - for helping a few years back with the same bike - charcoal canister in the tank had turned to muck. Cheers all.

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Last edited by roadracer40M; 06-04-2019 at 07:37 PM. Reason: typo
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 08:49 PM
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Since you washed the bike in a car wash you may have gotten water in the key switch. put the nozzle of a WD 40m can and fill the switch full. If there is water or dirt inside it should clean it out. I had a switch go bad and took it apart, cleaned it and all was good

Last edited by number2; 06-04-2019 at 09:21 PM.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 09:16 PM
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Be sure to clean mounting points/connectors for the main ground wires. And tend to the key switch as recommended by George @number2
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