Brand New Battery Issues - Page 9 - MVAgusta.net
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post #81 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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O/Y goes directly to the ECU. I had assumed that the ECU was actually grounding the start signal from the solenoid. I can verify that I have the ECU grounded properly, and all other grounds on the bike are connected.

Does this mean the ECU isn't reacting to the start signal? Which would cause suspicion of the ECU being faulty?

I am ordering a MicroTec from Chris at X-bikes today if everything goes through with my bank. I know I want it to replace the Power Commander, and I hear it helps with overheating/fans, etc. I'm still not sold on the ECU being the problem, but we are narrowing it down to the ECU.

How would I perform the voltage drop test on the ECU?

-whobeyou
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post #82 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:55 PM
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I would first check the function of the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR:

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post #83 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking about the CPS yesterday too, but thought that it would only kill the spark. However, as you showed above, the manual specifies the injection system wont work either.

Since the form wave is only created when the teeth are moving past the CPS, how would one go about testing the CPS for a fault?

-whobeyou
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post #84 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 01:03 PM
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It has to be a magnetic coil pickup. I would just test for continuity.

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Continuity should exist from 1 to 2.

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post #85 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:49 PM
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Should see around a volt or more (no spec from MV...a small voltage anyway) using a peak reading voltmeter measure between the 2 CKPS wires while engine is turning...

But your problem is the starter never turns the engine, the relay never energizes, right?? (unless you manually jump it).

So the O/Y wire goes to the ECU? Then the other wire is battery voltage. Disconnected from the relay, with key on, you should see battery voltage there.
Plugged into the relay, you see it on the O/Y wire, so the relay primary winding is continuous.
Now go check voltage on the O/Y at the ECU...if it there the wire is continuous, and the ECU is not grounding the circuit to turn the relay on.

Why isn't the ECU grounding the relay O/Y wire? that is the question. Must check all the inputs to the ECU needed for it to decide to ground the relay (side stand switch, neutral switch, starter button, etc etc.)

All those inputs are correct? ECU is bad.

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post #86 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:19 PM
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Blue/Yellow is indeed 12vdc from the General Feed Relay by way of FUSE 1. From the General Feed RElay to the fuse is Orange/Green, out of the fuse is Blue/Yellow

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post #87 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esq'z me View Post
Why isn't the ECU grounding the relay O/Y wire? that is the question. Must check all the inputs to the ECU needed for it to decide to ground the relay (side stand switch, neutral switch, starter button, etc etc.)

All those inputs are correct? ECU is bad.
I have verified that the side stand actuates the dash light, as well as the neutral switch. I know the switches are good, do you guys think it's worth it to trace the wires back to the ecu if possible? The kill switch/starter buttons appear to be good as well. I have no latch relay (earlier models) and I'm not sure anything else would act as a kill switch. I've had bad CPSs on my cars and the car still cranks, just won't fire. I'm willing to test any sensor/switch at this point, so I'll test the CPS for continuity.

Anyone care to disconnect their CPS (if possible) and see if their bike cranks lol?

-whobeyou
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post #88 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 07:06 PM
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Find the O/Y wire in the ECU connector. Back probe it for battery voltage. Jump back probe to ground. Relay engages-starter cranks? ECU isn't doing its job.

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post #89 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 05:28 AM
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Since it is the starter that is not turning.....Have you followed this?

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post #90 of 100 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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That page 26 diagram has kind of been my outline this whole time. The last thing I needed to check was the starter relay. Not sure what it means when it says "Check starter relay" then "correct" and "incorrect" but I have verified the starter relay is good.

I think I'm beginning to understand what I've done at this point. I've been thinking the whole event over the past few days. I'll recap just to get my facts straight:

- I went to hook up the new battery in the bike, and hooked up only one of the grounds for the bike, not both.
- I then tapped the screw driver to the frame of the bike when screwing in the positive lead of the battery, fairly big spark
- I cursed a whole bunch but got the battery "installed" (with the 2nd ground still not attached).
- I attempted to turn it on and that's when I had the buzzing noise from the General Feed relay.
- I then flipped my fan switch, that's jumped the fan relay's Bk/W wire to the ground. The fans struggled to come on and that's when I heard the pop from the rear of the bike.

Then I started this thread.

What I believe happened at this point is: Since one of the main grounds wasn't attached, the ECU couldn't ground itself properly, as evidenced by the buzzing of the GF relay. Then, in turning on my fan switch, I provided a new ground to the ECU through the Bk/W wire. This normally wouldn't be a problem as the Bk/W wire normally grounds when the ECU turns the fan on, but this provided a convenient way for trapped electricity to escape through a path that wasn't meant for it. I'm guessing something arced in the ECU or a capacitor blew from overload.

Does this make sense? Or am I crazy lol.

-whobeyou
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