Brand New Battery Issues - Page 6 - MVAgusta.net
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post #51 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Hey all, sorry for the long time between posts. Just wanted to update. I changed the diode with a new one, and still no start. I did check voltage across the starter solenoid with the starter button pressed and there was no voltage. I was trying to do this without alligator clips and without a second pair of hands as the wife is asleep. I'll double check it when I can get her help to be sure.

So, if there's no voltage, apparently it means that there is a long list of stuff that could be wrong. I'll basically work my way down the list and see if I can track it down. I'll most likely start with the advice @theknurl gave above to point me in the right direction.
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post #52 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 05:43 AM
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Use a disciplined approach and work your way from voltage at the battery to the point where voltage disappears.

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post #53 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, tomorrow is pretty much set to work out in the garage. I'm going to take the voltmeter to quite a few things and see where the voltage stops as recommended.

One question I have is around the "Power Relay" or item #6 in the electrical diagram. When I had originally put the new battery in and turned the key, I heard a decently loud POP from the rear end. The only thing back there other than the ECU is the Power Relay. I've looked through the manual and can't find much on it, only how to test it. I see that it feeds through fuse #6 to the Fuel Injectors. I'm wondering if @theknurl is right and I have multiple issues. I can't start the bike via jumping the starter relay, so I know it's not getting either fuel or spark.

However, I'm not sure the Power Relay would cause the start button not to work. So my question is this: would a faulty Power Relay cause some sort of kill switch situation?

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post #54 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 06:50 AM
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This is an important question because things changed between 2006 and 2007. What is the 10th digit of your VIN?

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post #55 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 06:56 AM
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That being said, the POWER RELAY is just that....power distribution to the bike and yes it feeds the ignition RED WIRE 12VDC.

The other major relay, the GENERAL RELAY is power distribution to the Fuel Injection and Ignition Systems.

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Last edited by silentservice703; 02-14-2019 at 03:18 PM.
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post #56 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 07:09 AM
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Now that I have taken the time to go back and read through this thread, we have covered most of the pertinent information. The Power Relay and the Injection Relay are devices available in any auto parts store for less than $10.00. Buy each of them and replace both of your relays.

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post #57 of 70 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 07:10 AM
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Hearing a loud pop from any electrical system is inherently troublesome. It indicates a severe overload that can lead to multiple failures. You have to find them all systematically.

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post #58 of 70 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, just got done testing the safety/kill switches on the bike and they are all good. I'm beginning to think it's the ECU at this point (or it's possible it's the dash). I've contacted Chris with Xbikes, and he has a MicroTec on hand. Before I buy it, I'd like to confirm that this is indeed the problem somehow, but have no one with a good ECU to test.

I haven't taken off the gas tank and airbox to see if I'm getting spark/fuel. That'll be this weekend.

At this point I'm getting kind of desperate to get her running. I even got another bike to ride while the MV is down. I REALLY don't want to sell this as a parts bike for some electrical issue, but the wife is getting increasingly annoyed with it sitting there. I've taken it to the only shop that will look at it in Colorado and they couldn't figure it out (not going back there again).

I'm offering to pay for anyone who has a known good ECU (and possibly dash) to fly out to Colorado and help me out. I can pay for a hotel if we think it'll take longer than a day. And I'll pay for your time of course, I just want the bike to work.

If you want to see Colorado on my dime, and feel like getting a MV Agusta back from the dead PM me.

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post #59 of 70 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 05:49 AM
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Reading back through the thread here, I'd put a fiver on the diode either being in the wrong way around or faulty..

re-check the diode...
Joe

I may have an ecu also for your bike here as a spare if any help. I doubt if it is the ecu though.

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Last edited by gotojoe; 02-14-2019 at 06:12 AM.
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post #60 of 70 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Joe,

I did solder in a new diode to the harness and no bueno. I would've put money on that as well. One curious thing I saw last night when testing was that when the front kill/stop switch, the voltage between the two wires was present when the kill switch was set to OFF. Then when I set it to RUN the voltage between the two disappeared. This seems normal to me as the kill switch is completing the circuit and passing the 12v to the next wire. However, the manual says this should be directly the opposite of what happens. Not sure if that helps with troubleshooting or not, but I figured it must be the ECU (as every freaking wire runs to it) messing up the signals.

I'm going to re-test the diode tonight, see if I get something different.

The offer still stands if someone wants to see Colorado

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