Engine Coolant Thermostat - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Engine Coolant Thermostat

This question has been on my mind so I throw it out for comments. Would it be a positive change for eng temp to remove the thermostat? I don't know the opening temp but given that coolant temps run as hot as they do the thermostat has to wide open all the time other than when first starting. The thought here is that the thermostat may be somewhat restrictive and taking it out would increase coolant flow. Other than a longer warm up period I can't find any logical reason for it to be in there. Comments please.

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee
This question has been on my mind so I throw it out for comments. Would it be a positive change for eng temp to remove the thermostat? I don't know the opening temp but given that coolant temps run as hot as they do the thermostat has to wide open all the time other than when first starting. The thought here is that the thermostat may be somewhat restrictive and taking it out would increase coolant flow. Other than a longer warm up period I can't find any logical reason for it to be in there. Comments please.
The longer an engine takes to reach its operative temp, the more internal wear will occur.. I wouldn't recommend the complete removal of the stat.. However, your right in saying that once the stat has opened, it job is basically finished until the engine completely cools down again..

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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I agree on the accelerated wear. Put that aside and assume the engine is up to op temp. With no thermostat to restrict the flow (if it does) would that result in more flow hence cooler temp? Particularly at idle when the flow isn't the greatest due to the pump's inability to move enough coolant?

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 01:52 PM
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The thermostat does restrict the flow of coolant somewhat. I have heard that in full summer heat her at the racetrack, removing the thermostat did indeed drop the operating temperature. I think he said 10F, but didn't press for further details. By the way, this is from quite a reliable source, not some backyard hack. (He had just come back from Italy for service training on the Desmosedici.) The reason this came up is that I was asking about heat and mentioned a trick we used to do with cars.

The thermostat is essentially a washer installed in the coolant line. The center hole of the washer gets covered or opened depending on the temperature of the coolant. We experimented with drilling holes in the outer portion of that washer, so that even when the thermostat is closed, there is still some limited flow. My thought was that when open, this might give slightly better flow. His response, "Give it a try. It might help."

Perhaps I'll take a look at it today if I get around to that oil change I need to do.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 03:43 PM
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+1
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 05:12 PM
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I used to 'run' an F40 LM (one of about 17 factory cars), no Tstat at all just a roll of Gaffa tape for water and oil rads and a Ferrari inst book of where to stick it!! the problem with taking the tstat out is if the bike drops to 62deg C it will drop onto it's warm up programme (choke) which will not be a 'proper' performance map and you may damage the engine you wwill certainly lose performance, best left in I feel

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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How often does an F4 1000 drop below 62C once it's up to op temp? And if it goes below 62 and the start circut cuts in then it's doing what it should, no? I think it's worth a try, and I'm going to do some testing with and without the T-Stat. Too bad it's 28 dgerees F with 6" of snow out there. But I can run it in the shop and get an idea I think. Or I could bundle my old ass up and play Nannook of the North. Wouldn't be a realistic test envoironment though.

F 40LM eh? You dog.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 06:24 PM
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I used to have problems with my 900SS running too cold. In the winter, I'd tape over the oil cooler, which had no thermostat. With the old 125 and 250 GP bikes, that was how we regulated temperature.

On the F4, I doubt that the temperature would drop too low once moving, but it would take longer to get there, and would be running rich until it was due to the system automatically simulating a choke.

I did just change my oil, but looked at the thermostat housing and decided, "nah, not today." Even if I had modified the thermostat as I suggested, it's not getting over 50F during the day right now, so I wouldn't know if it made a difference or not. The best time for this type of testing is gone for the winter. Perhaps I'll change my mind, or do it in another 3500 miles when I'm due for a valve clearance check.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 08:28 PM
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Why not try and find a thermostat that opens at a lower temp?

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-09-2007, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAG
Why not try and find a thermostat that opens at a lower temp?
That's a good question, but presumes that one is available. That's another old hot rodder's trick. For the MV, I haven't checked. I doubt there's more than one value available.

From my previous experience, I used a cooler thermostat on a car that heated up very quickly and would show a spike of high temperature before the thermostat fully opened. Once the thermostat is fully opened though, the temperature rating of it doesn't matter anymore. If the higher temperature one isn't fully opened at normal operating temperature, a lower one might help.

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