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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-25-2007, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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you guys/gals solder?

I read here and there that people use solder to make electric connections on their mv. As far as I know that's a no go area, solder will crawl into the wire and make it stiff, resulting in a crack due to vibrations. I believe crimping was invented during the 1st WW to prevent this from happening in planes.

I now face the problem where I don't have enough room to use a connector and may go for soldering. It's the hydrolic brakeswitch. Would like to hear your input on this one
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-25-2007, 07:33 PM
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That's interesting, I've never heard it before. I always soldered connections were stronger than crimped.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-25-2007, 07:39 PM
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I've been soldering connections and joints for years on bikes and have never seen what you mention. If anything the solder makes it stronger. It's my feeling that crimping is used because it's faster and easier on a production line. It's a perfectly good connection just the same.

I got mine. Boy do I ever got mine.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2007, 01:20 PM
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I always use solder...i have had wires come out of crimped connections or become bad crimps after time(granted this was during years of car stereo installations and LOTS of connections).
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2007, 01:28 PM
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always solder when you can. i'd solder the head unit into my car if i had a soldering iron. always makes the connection stronger (physically and electrically).

If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking. - George S. Patton
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2007, 03:51 PM
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I can see the logic of what you say. If a wire can vibrate then it will weaken where the uncoated wire meets the solder, but it's not likely to be a common occurence. If you're worried about it then use the heat shrink tubing to add some strength. (It's always good practice to clean up your joins like that anyway and remove any risk of shorting.)

Si
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-26-2007, 09:31 PM
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88 miles per hour, Marty!

The key is the flux... strip, twist, and clean the end well with isopropyl alcohol. Apply a decent amount of flux to the end of the twist, have a good bead of solder on the tip of the iron... don't use an elephant toe... Touch the bead to the flux on the wire and the wicking action of the wire aided by the heat transfer of the flux should cause just enough to tin the end of the wire. Bring the iron away from the end. Allow to cool. Clean again with the alcohol, and you're done.

Hope this helps!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2007, 08:25 AM
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Your original thought was correct solder is a old outdated way to connect two wires .

When ever you heat a metal you destroy its strength , an will shorten the metals life . In industrial , an any structural welding , the welds placed are stronger then the metal around the weld . The heat caused by welding destroys the metal around the weld .

In electrical systems a weld will increase resistance . That could theoretically slow down the current flow , which would not be good for most of your bikes systems . An if you were to try to transmit data an not just a low voltage current over the wire your gonna be out of gas , the data is gonna hate your solder . So pray no one invents smart devices for your bike that requires more then a electrical current to open an close a switch .

Also solder is toxic .

All major telecom companies have gone to a jelly filled NON STRIPPING of wire form of splicing . The splice will be completely water proof , hopefully your garage is ac otherwise the atmosphere change from the hot bike will eventually rot your splice even under shrink wrap .

I believe the company logo that sells the modern splice kits is called ...AMP
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2007, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by logos1111
Your original thought was correct solder is a old outdated way to connect two wires .

When ever you heat a metal you destroy its strength , an will shorten the metals life . In industrial , an any structural welding , the welds placed are stronger then the metal around the weld . The heat caused by welding destroys the metal around the weld .

In electrical systems a weld will increase resistance . That could theoretically slow down the current flow , which would not be good for most of your bikes systems . An if you were to try to transmit data an not just a low voltage current over the wire your gonna be out of gas , the data is gonna hate your solder . So pray no one invents smart devices for your bike that requires more then a electrical current to open an close a switch .

Also solder is toxic .

All major telecom companies have gone to a jelly filled NON STRIPPING of wire form of splicing . The splice will be completely water proof , hopefully your garage is ac otherwise the atmosphere change from the hot bike will eventually rot your splice even under shrink wrap .

I believe the company logo that sells the modern splice kits is called ...AMP

but the initial problem is not having enough space for a splice/crimp device..... and a lot of the splicing devices will cut your wire in half if not done correctly.... and when you have 3 or more connections to make in one area, the splices look a bit messy and take up too much room..... but when only one is needed.....and properly installed, they work nicely
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-27-2007, 09:16 AM
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Room for the splice could be an issue , the proper splice for the gauge wire used will get rid of any cutting problem . They have splice kits called half taps that help with the room issues .

As smart devices start to make their way into the consumer products, or even devices with the need for precise amperage an voltage levels , for internal functions , and not just to the device as a whole . The change in a wires resistances and its capacitance between its negative lead , or its data mate in the circuit will dramatically change the way the device functions . it will become important the aesthetics be left aside for a proper splice .
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