need some answers and tips - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2007, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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need some answers and tips

hi all

i just purchased a mid pipe that has the cat body shape but no cat in it it all
as on the 1000s so it looks standard

my questions are
will running this de cat pipe be ok with out having any fuel mods done as the bike is as standard as it comes (at the mo)

and will i benifit from just this pipe
not worried on performace more hoping for a bit better sound

also are the bolts that gold the 2 pipes together with the plate stainless or mild steel as i had to use a pair of molegrips to get one undone as it had rusted
as i'd like to replace them with stainless if there not
also what do oyu recommend to use to stop them from seizing like this

thanks in advance

jas
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 04:56 AM
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I think you can just fit the decatted midpipe and the bike will run OK, but, of course, installing a PC3 and doing a custom map will be better.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 05:03 AM
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Well my friend has just done the same. Standard bike but just removed the cat. Apparently its running fine and appears to breath better. He's not reported any problems. Good luck mate!

'' Oggi Corriamo''
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 06:54 AM
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You may notice a difference in the A/F ratio due to less restriction in the decatted pipe. If you still have the lambda sensor installed it may or may not compensate for this. Just install it and see what you get. If you have access to a Dyno with a load cell that's the best way to determine if it's a positive or negative change.

I do not think the exhaust note will change that much, if at all, because that's more a function of the muffler tips than the pipe.

Take a magnet and try to pick up the bolts. If it does they're steel and if not they're SS. I think the fact that they rusted would indicate that they are steel.

"Never Seize" or something similar will prevent seizing. It will also allow the bolts to work loose. I would recommend blue loctite as it will coat the threads to prevent seizing and yet not work loose.

I got mine. Boy do I ever got mine.

Last edited by lee; 11-23-2007 at 06:56 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 10:27 AM
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Just spoke to my friend who I mentioned in my above post. His bike is still running well with no problems. He's pleased he got it done. Hope that helps.

'' Oggi Corriamo''
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lee
You may notice a difference in the A/F ratio due to less restriction in the decatted pipe. If you still have the lambda sensor installed it may or may not compensate for this. Just install it and see what you get. If you have access to a Dyno with a load cell that's the best way to determine if it's a positive or negative change.

I do not think the exhaust note will change that much, if at all, because that's more a function of the muffler tips than the pipe.

Take a magnet and try to pick up the bolts. If it does they're steel and if not they're SS. I think the fact that they rusted would indicate that they are steel.

"Never Seize" or something similar will prevent seizing. It will also allow the bolts to work loose. I would recommend blue loctite as it will coat the threads to prevent seizing and yet not work loose.
The F4 1000 doesn't have a lambda sensor. Before and after dyno runs with air/fuel measurements would be the best way to find out, but I expect the change would be small. I'll second the "install it and see what you get" suggestion.

I expect that it will sound a little better, but nothing dramatic.

The magnet and anti-seize comments are spot on, but the loctite won't work on bolts that clamp the pipes together. Heat is a recommended way of breaking loose loctite. Anti-seize is critical with stainless to stainless, because the metal is prone to galling.

2008 MV Agusta F4 312 R
2002 Ducati ST4S
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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hi all
thanks for the advice and help to notch
well i should have known checking the bolts to see if their magnatic (used to be an engineer what a twat)
well they are magnetic so that would indicte if memories right there not stainless steel
hense the rust on them and i've only managed 1900 miles
so i'm gonna get some stainless a4 aircraft gauge that are more resiliant to corrosion,
1 of the bolts that clamps the 2 cans together the inside had rounded off (not happy and it had to happen to me
i thought stainless-stainless doesn't sieze together or am i wrong
i presume the chambers are stainless i haven't checked just thought off this one (note to ones self tomorrow before breaky check)


pick up seemed better but i only had it running to try her out
also now suffers a bit of poping when the throttle is shut off which she never did
why is this any ideas and would it hurt it running like this


thanks again
jas
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2007, 06:02 PM
lee
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On my carburetted bikes popping from the pipe on decelleration most always indicates a lean mixture. It is also confirmed by the A/F ratio gauge which I install. Whether this also applies to EFI I'm not sure but if there is no lambda sensor to regulate the mixture then it would seem the A/F ratio is fixed per the map. So if you can richen up your idle a bit it might eliminate the popping. Just a thought.

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