2010 F4 Timing Chain Tensioner ???'s - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-08-2014, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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2010 F4 Timing Chain Tensioner ???'s

Vehicle:
2010 F4 1+1
approx. 5300 miles


History:
Just changed the oil to AMSoil 20w50 on 3/27/2014 (previous oil viscosity unknown)...and ran fine for next 4 days on street/normal freeway. No leaks and ran cooler and noticed smoother shifting.

Symptoms/problem:
After stretching her out to approx 130 MPH on the 5th morning after oil change...i notice a "new rattle noise" at the light and believe its the "Duc dry clutch" sound....so i'm also thinking it may be the cam timing chain tensioner (the teeth on the gears are grinding)?

Before checking forum, I took the valve cover off because rattle sounded it was coming from there but everything appeared in order. After reading through the posts, it seems this was an issue with earlier F4's and the tensioners. Of course I have the "newer" (black housing) tensioner.

My question:

1. Can an oil change cause the tensioner to act up/go bad especially after 5300 miles ?

2. Is there a reset/check for the cam timing chain tensioner WITHOUT having to resync the head cams to the cam in the crank case ?....want to avoid removing the valve cover if possible...can the tensioner be reset/taken out and put back in to stop "the teeth" on the gears from grinding

or....

if tensioner is good....will i have to loosen/take it out and "set the timing"....by getting the valve cover off and resync with the crack case cam ?
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 04:46 AM
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There has been a few cases of timing chain tensioners acting up on the >Y10 bikes, I would take the bike back to the dealer if still under warranty, and if at all possible if I where you.

Are you sure it's timing chain rattling, I would drain my oil and look for metal first.

If you're going to do this work yourself, please download the workshop manuals and go through it properly, you have to lock the crank in place to remove timing chain tensioner. You need to open cam cover to do this as safe as possible.

Why are you using such a thick oil ?

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 05:20 AM
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Dons, 20w50 is a recommended viscosity...especially in warmer climates.

I run 20w50 in all my bikes, even here in the North East USA.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 05:35 AM
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Yeah sorry Chuck, I've just been going through the F3 manual for another guy and for some reason I thought the >10 F4's also run thinner oil compared to the <10 bikes.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 05:39 AM
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 06:22 AM
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2010 F4 Timing Chain Tensioner ???'s

At what point should you adjust the tensioner. I have a some noise at cold start which goes away after a couple of minutes warm up.

Oh and it's got 27K


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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renaissance View Post
At what point should you adjust the tensioner. I have a some noise at cold start which goes away after a couple of minutes warm up.

Oh and it's got 27K


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You don't adjust it, it does it automatically, check the service schedule for when it should be replaced. Okay I just checked.
It looks like it should be checked and replaced if needed every 12K, same as the timing chain.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all,

I dont know for sure if its the tensioner but from all the reading i've done...sounds like it....


Also when I give throttle/rev engine=faster/slightly louder rattle...so its definitely tied to engine rotation/speed....other than the cams linked with the timing chain...I cant think of anything else moving with engine rev (even at Neutral).

Was also thinking to drain and check oil again also...

I have a mechanic friend that knows the engine stuff and I know the bike anatomy and the manuals and we feel comfy going in at it...but u mention as long as I LOCK the crank case cam....I can safely remove/inspect/replace the tensioner...thats what I was hoping, Thank you...will let you know in a couple days
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 08:06 AM
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Read that manual first !!! And remember your clutch basket also spins with the motor.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2014, 06:18 PM
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Unfortunately, I have gone through a few tensioners in 42,000 kms. My bike came std with the older style tensioner that has a history of breakages, so I changed to the F4 later style when it gave trouble.
My ones have all jammed, so that the plunger doesn't move in or out, causing the chain to be loose. The tensioner has a ratchet which means that it can only extend as the chain gets loose.

I have noticed that when the tensioner jams, there is a noticeable roughness that can be felt through the pegs and bars in the 4600-4900 rpm range.

Do not be tempted to pull the tensioner without locking the timing. The design of the motor is such that the chain will drop off the lower sprocket and move the timing. Been there, done that, there is no shortcut!

Last edited by revhead1957; 04-09-2014 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Added more explanation
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