2010 F4 prolbems white smoke - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 02:51 AM Thread Starter
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2010 F4 prolbems white smoke

Well to make a long story short my 2010 F4 with smokes really bad after cold start up then vanishes after i run it shut it off then start
it again. Just started doing it I changed the oil in it with 10w-40mobil
racing T . Was fine for weeks then the bike sat awhile about 1 week
I take it out get on it a bit park it to eat some lunch it smokes a little
then goes away the bike has no lose of power seemed fine .
I let it set over night for about 12 hours and started it the smoke
was so bad and thick white that it filled my garage and stunk
pretty bad . So i checked the oil it was fine no milky checked anti-
clean as can be . The air box cover had oil residue in it and some on
the plates just a little like a car with a poor Pcv system
So i am going to inspect the plugs and see were it
goes got two out but the outer coils hit the frame do they disconnect
at the coil some were or does the boot pop off the coil .
I am not going to pull to hard and break something so a little advice
would be much appreciated. Are these bike that sensitive were they need the 10w60 oil ?

Last edited by termisvt; 07-31-2013 at 03:16 AM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by termisvt View Post
Well to make a long story short my 2010 F4 with smokes really bad after cold start up then vanishes after i run it shut it off then start
it again. Just started doing it I changed the oil in it with 10w-40mobil
racing T . Was fine for weeks then the bike sat awhile about 1 week
I take it out get on it a bit park it to eat some lunch it smokes a little
then goes away the bike has no lose of power seemed fine .
I let it set over night for about 12 hours and started it the smoke
was so bad and thick white that it filled my garage and stunk
pretty bad . So i checked the oil it was fine no milky checked anti-
clean as can be . The air box cover had oil residue in it and some on
the plates just a little like a car with a poor Pcv system
So i am going to inspect the plugs and see were it
goes got two out but the outer coils hit the frame do they disconnect
at the coil some were or does the boot pop off the coil .
I am not going to pull to hard and break something so a little advice
would be much appreciated. Are these bike that sensitive were they need the 10w60 oil ?
Due to the problems you are having MV have sent a bulletin out advising all 2010 on wards, only to full the engine oil up to a 1/4 on the sight glass, your dealer should be awere of this.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 08:34 AM
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MV also say only to run 10-60 ..... 10-40 is very different, i just had a smoking issue with my 2010, but that was after riding it hard... it would blow smoke on start up and sometimes when at big rev's

i drained the oil and as said above u should run the oil lower on the sight glass, i run mine now at about 1/4-1/2 way between the high and low marks on the sight glass... and that has so far fixed the problem

i'd be replacing the oil with the correct 10-60 and run it at the new revised oil level
I can also tell u where it goes, the left hand side throttle body, because the bike leans to the left on the stand, the oil from the airbox runs to the left hand throttle body and sits down there so on start up it'll blow smoke
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info guy really appreciated. Did any one
think of putting and in line oil catch on that hose or a breather?
I have one on a car i race cause it suck oil out through the
PCV back to the throttle body and coated it . Installed
the catch caught all of it and you just poor it back into
the crank case when full or in this case maybe not at
all and just empty every oil change . Just a thought
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 12:09 PM
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I've said this before _ If I bought a bike new, and it pumps it's oil out when I ride it hard on the road, I will take it back for a refund _ I realy would.

This could kill you or people riding behind you. Your choice.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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My bike never smokes under heavy load just runs good
condensation aka water out the tail pipe after the
smoke dissipates . I did change the oil and did
put more in then what a bulletin you guys are
talking about said . So im going to change the plugs
and I am surprised cheep copper plugs in there
Time for iridium and a Bmc filter mite as well !
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 02:13 PM
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+1 on what Donsy stated. So true.....


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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-31-2013, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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I am acknowledge his point and take it seriously .
I am going to try to run two k/n mini breathers on the air
box hoses plug off the ones the the air box and run the proper oil level since I know what it is now .
If it persist then to the dealer it goes and its internal engine proble

Last edited by termisvt; 07-31-2013 at 03:29 PM.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 08:22 AM
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i thought of running a catch can, was trying to come up with one that could drain oil back into the crack case directly..... but as i said when i droped the oil level to the corect level that MV now recomend, it has been fine, even tryed a wheelie today just to see if it would do it again, and nope nothing.... simple fix

i agree with u donsy.... but fact is its just an oil level issue, if u run any bike with to much oil the same thing will happen... No hiding the fact tho that MV should have got the sight glass right from the factory.... but at least its very simple, rather then the 2013 with a fualty electronic package :/ ...... seems MV really need to left there game
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 09:15 AM
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So, all over the world there's guys running Y10+ F4's, some of them pretty hard, without problems.

Then how come only some of them are pumpimg out oil ?

Dons Nel
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