2010 F4 Slip-on exhaust valve elimination - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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2010 F4 Slip-on exhaust valve elimination

I just purchased a BODIS slip-on exhaust for my 2010 F4, it comes without the valve that the stock slip-on has on it. I would like to know how to eliminate the mechanism that modulates that valve open and closed. It seems like I have to remove the cables from the electric motor (servo) and just leave the electric motor in its place functioning electrically. If I remove the motor altogether, it will confuse the computer thinking the motor went bad, causing CHECK ENGINE LIGHT or worst. If anybody out there has done this modification or knows what is the correct way to do it, I would greatly appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Lou
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post #2 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 06:11 PM
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post #3 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 07:52 PM
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Wink eliminating servo motor?

what diagnostic tool does a '10+ MV use? is it still the VDST?
deleting the motor is probably possible......you might need a password like with Aprilia's Axone/Navigator from Texa

try contacting TechnoResearch

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post #4 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 05:49 AM
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Removing the valve will change the A/F mixture in the RPM range where it is active. I assume it would be a drastic change to super lean. That valve acts in conjunction with the mapping of the ecu to provide power with lower emmisions in the lower RPM region...as I understand it...(I know the smart guys will chime in if I'm wrong here).

Were it me, I'd leave the motor alone, disconnect the cables that move the valve and call it a day.

I'd expect that I'd have to tune the ECU for operation without the exhaust valve.....or I'd expect problems.

Where does the Bodis "Slip On" connect to the current exhaust? It appears from the photo that it connects just upstream of the exhaust valve...

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post #5 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 05:52 AM
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My explaination of the Exhaust Valve Operation is a bit off...here is a link to a simple explaination....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-st...r_valve_system

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post #6 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 09:34 AM
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Most exhaust tuning valve removals require installing a stopper on the actuator to simulate the cables reaching full open or closed, fooling the ECU to think it is still functioning (Kawasaki ZXRs as example), or the disabling of the circuit inside the ECU (Suzuki GSX-R's have a ground wire from the ECU that can be clipped taking that system out). Some ECUs will never know the cables aren't connected anymore as the actuator works from a center point (Yamaha R1-R6 I believe)......Not sure how the MV system works, but the exhaust manufacturer should provide instruction....either that or they anticipate you will be using a different ECU (race kit or Microtech).

Regardless, simply unplugging and yanking the actuator motor off will cause a detected trouble code and resultant Engine Malfunction Light (check engine)...possibly go to a default fail safe fuel map as well. Just disconnecting the cables may as well.

Sorry, I don't have an answer for this one. Hopefully someone will enlighten us.

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post #7 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 12:04 PM
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just remove the cables and it will be fine. you can do it on a stock set up as well and you won't get an engine light.

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post #8 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 01:10 PM
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There you go....the Actuator must work off a center point (ala Yamaha)....but you can't pull off the actuator itself without getting a Detected trouble code.

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post #9 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the input. What I ended up doing which was recommended by Speers Racing the manufactures of the BODIS exhaust is disconnecting the cables from the electric motor and removing them with the stock slip-on. Works great run beautiful! I'm very happy with the results.

Thanks,
Lou
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post #10 of 66 (permalink) Old 12-22-2011, 07:21 PM
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Lou, Photos? -Pipes on Bike, Please.
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