F4 rideability/throttle issues - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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F4 rideability/throttle issues

Hi all,
Proud owner of a stock 2013 F4 with 2400km on it. Purchased with 1800km.

Have a couple of gripes with the power delivery and throttle response. Want to know if others are the same or if issues are unique to my bike?

1. The bike struggles to take off from a standstill. Doesn't matter what I do with the throttle it wont make enough power. Sounds like it bogs and I have to ride the clutch for a long time. Once moving at speed the power comes back. Had my 53kg partner on the back over the weekend and it is horrible. Its actually dangerous as I cant take off from an intersection quickly if needed.

2. Occasionally when I blip to downshift or simply free rev the bike from idle, it stumbles before revving. Like a carby engine taking a big gulp of air that it cant fuel. This is intermittent but very frequent.

3. Delay in throttle response when going from a cruising throttle to full throttle. The bike doesn't bog or change note, simply nothing happens momentarily then off we go. This is random and not always noticable.

4. Notable lack of power for a 1000cc superbike. Can anybody else hold their F4 wide open throttle in 2nd gear with TC off? Sure it accelerates well and slightly carries the front wheel. But its no animal.

I have recently purchased ecustudio and used the recommended maps/settings after discussions with Aaron. This has improved the bike greatly (I highly recommend) but the above issues have prevailed as per stock tune. No fault codes. Happens in all modes, TC on or off.

Bike is booked in for the 29th to have a dyno run and diagnose.

On a side note, are all F4's noisy engines? This one seems to have a lot of valve train noise. No others in my area to compare.

Thank you, Luke
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 12:48 AM
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I have a 2013 F4RR also with ECU studio and full Termignoni system.
The fly by wire F4's have always been poor at pulling away from standstill, very difficult in my opinion to get the power down quickly but yours does sound worse from your description. I went from a 2010 F4 with Microtec to this bike and for me the throttle response was nicer/easier on the cabled 2010 model.
I recently changed my throttle table to 1 to 1 via ECU studio and this has also helped make the bike pick up quicker but its not exactly great for the road, most of my time is spent on the track.
I remember when I first got the F4RR I had the delayed throttle response sometimes when going from cruising to full power, that seemed to go away when I moved to ECU studio so not sure what is happening with yours.
As for the power, yes I can hold the bike at full throttle in 2nd and the front wheel will lift but for me it does feel like an 'animal', in fact on track I am not down on speed compared to my friends Panigale R, maybe top speed is not there but acceleration is pretty much the same.
Sorry I cant be of more help but I would get my dealer to take a look if you have one. The noisy engine would worry me a bit so I would have it looked at.

Dragster 800 2015
F4 RR 2013
Brutale 1090 RR 2011 - Sold
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Hi jhollis

Thanks for input. What your saying makes sense. My bike rides well at ludicrous speeds, I'm sure if it was a track only bike I would be satisfied. But reality is most of my riding is under 100km'h. My cable throttle zx10r was much easier to ride even when tuned within an inch of its life.

I have played with the throttle table previously and actually softened it under 15% to help with the snatchy response mid corner and slow speeds.
But I can twist the throttle to 50% when taking off from a stop and it seems under powered. If I'm brave enough to hold that 50% the bike launches (maybe back flips is a better word) at about 30km/h.

I just had a play with the target torque table. I put in some high numbers in the under 3000rpm and less then 20% throttle cells. Wow what a difference. I can see how restrictive the mapping is now and will return to previous settings for the time being as I'm not sure if I'm putting the engine at risk.

Obviously I will be leaving the torque target settings alone until its on the dyno. But has anyone played with these themselves?
Can you set the target torque to high? Or will the bike simply give you all that is available?

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 06:01 AM
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Just a note about noisy engine.... YES....MV engines have always been kind of "rattly".... compared to most Japanese engines and BMWs they are very loud. Maybe has something to do with the roller cam chain vs hy-vo "silent" cam chains.

.... engine noise??, how do you like the Ducati dry clutch?
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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^Thanks that makes me feel much better.

After experimenting with the torque target map I realize that issue 1 and 3 above are purely software/tune related. I have already eliminated the bogging on take off and smoothed out the on/off snatchy throttle that these have. The bike now rides beautifully at low rpm. Doing the rest of the target torque will take time to get the most power smoothy. It is currently giving a huge torque 'hit' at about 5000rpm that is dangerous. But wow can it go! I want maximum power but delivered smoothly.

Does anyone have an aggressive target torque map they are willing to share?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Today, 02:03 PM
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I have a 2013 F4 also, with the Cat removed and a full Bodis exhaust. Here is what I did to get the bike to be controllable and enjoyable.

1. Get a 2016 or later throttle. This will have a stiffer spring and make the throttle easy to modulate. The stock 2013 spring is ridiculously weak.

2. Go to the dealer and have them flash your ECU with the latest factory update. There have been two updates since 2013. It will eliminate the flat spots and smooth the throttle response.

3. Replace the stock clutch with an STM clutch. It's around $1000 for the replacement clutch. The stock MV clutch is hard to modulate and might as well be a toggle switch. The STM clutch will allow you to launch smoothly.

4. Replace the clutch slave with a 30 or 31 mm diameter clutch slave to give you more clutch throw and make the clutch easier to modulate.

5. Set the throttle response to rain, power to max, and throttle sensitivity to fast. I also set engine braking to sport, which will give minimum engine braking, and make the transition from on to off throttle smoothly.

I have done all of the above things to my bike and I love it. Best of luck.
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