slipper clutch adjustments? do they "break in"? - MVAgusta.net
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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slipper clutch adjustments? do they "break in"?

the reason I ask is because both of my experiences with my 1090rr and my F4 were that the clutch, when downshifting, was extremely crisp when matching revs, but as the miles added up(500-1000) I noticed i had to be really, really focused to get a nice crisp downshift.. and even then it didnt have that brand spanking new feel.

It's not my hand/foot coordination --- I do not remotely consider myself to be a talented rider, but I most definitely have the finesse for working hand and foot gears the proper way.

at first I thought it was due to the install of my F4's lightech rearsets will the dreadful inclusion of a rod linkage(argh!!!) contributing to a bit of slack in leverage, but I never replaced my 1090rr rearsets and remember losing some of the crisp feel of banging down gears.. when i say the downshifts are LESS crisp, i would say the feeling is as if the slipper is engaged just a tiny bit - enough to delay things enough to notice a difference, but not enough to think it to be a problem(kind of like those stupid clutch delay valves that automakers put in cars to protect the chassis from abusive upshifts.)

I did not follow the break-in period on either bikes, and gave them both a good moderate workout --- but no clutchless up/down shifts or being abusive to the engine or clutch, just spirited riding. Clutches do have break-in periods, just like brake pads, one would have to assume... so... do you figure a slipper clutch can wear itself in to the point of needing mild adjustments at such early mileage intervals? my f4 has 1200 miles.

Last edited by drunkentrader; 07-10-2016 at 02:02 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 03:15 AM
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There's no parts on the slipper clutch which needs wearing in or which is adjustable.
The plates itself wears in very quickly, the change in feel could be just because of gearbox loosening up, oil aging or even clutch fluid aging.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-12-2016, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. That being the case, I cant neglect the fact that the spline-on gear shifter has what leverages itself into an additional 5mm of redundant linkage slack. Gonna buy a longer bollt -- I'm hoping to cure two problems(my quickshifter doesn't work either) by having one longer bolt torqued down to firm up the spline play and make room for one or two nuts to position/torque the QS donut strain gauge to the proper 5-8 ft lbs. Would love to finally experience a quickshifter on a bike! It's kind of the only cool gadget found on the entire bike(base '13)
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2016, 01:25 AM
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What quickshifter module are you using, the same as on the F4's ? Not a fan of them at all and if you're using a linkage system I'd try a different kind for sure.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-23-2016, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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It's the factory unit supplied by starlane. I have tried arranging the sensor at different install locations per the starlane instruction manual. I think the problem is just user error and not having access to a torque wrench to experiment with get right tq rating.

Either way, my dealer just called and stated the warranty items they requested have arrived, so I'll let them tinker with when I drop it off in a couple weeks.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2016, 11:28 AM
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First thing I did when I got the bike was change the slipper clutch to EVR unit from MV special parts. On the quickshifter issue - I have spent almost a month experimenting with different setups of QS on my F4, using two different rearsets, one of them with connecting rod (this should be a preferred setup for quickshifter, but it didn't work at all in my case). I ended up using the stock washer sensor in stock location, and while looking more deeply into the matter, I found out that it's very torque-sensitive (the manual states 5-7 Nm of torque on the QS bolt), and also, the sensor works much better with higher torque (7-10 Nm) than the lower one.
A quote from the Starlane manual - "The value measured by the sensor depends upon the shift energy and not simply upon the force. As a consequence, a slow action on the lever may fail to be detected or it may produce a weaker signal compared to the driver’s usual action"

Hope this helps.

'13 F4 RR
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-24-2016, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paors View Post
First thing I did when I got the bike was change the slipper clutch to EVR unit from MV special parts. On the quickshifter issue - I have spent almost a month experimenting with different setups of QS on my F4, using two different rearsets, one of them with connecting rod (this should be a preferred setup for quickshifter, but it didn't work at all in my case). I ended up using the stock washer sensor in stock location, and while looking more deeply into the matter, I found out that it's very torque-sensitive (the manual states 5-7 Nm of torque on the QS bolt), and also, the sensor works much better with higher torque (7-10 Nm) than the lower one.
A quote from the Starlane manual - "The value measured by the sensor depends upon the shift energy and not simply upon the force. As a consequence, a slow action on the lever may fail to be detected or it may produce a weaker signal compared to the driverís usual action"

Hope this helps.
Thanks for that mate, long time no see

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-16-2017, 04:15 AM
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Quick shifter

I installed a Translogic quick shifter with a EVR FMV1001 slipper clutch and made my own rearsets. Works perfect.
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