Better Battery - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Better Battery

Just noticed my 2014 F4 came with a Yuasa YTZ10S. I guess MV got the message about the Koyo, it`s a miracle!

2014 MV Agusta F4
Moto Guzzi 1100 Sporti
Yamaha R1
Honda CT90

Last edited by flyboyk; 05-17-2015 at 02:54 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-16-2015, 10:36 PM
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Probably cost them more than they expected.....in warranty claims.


Old saying in after sales service regarding manufacturing....."Manufacture Cost Down = Warranty Cost Up"

The deciding factor is "Does the manufacturing cost savings outweigh the warranty cost increase?" The bean counters don't really care about customer satisfaction.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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It`s always about the money!

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 11:34 AM
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My Koyo is working perfectly still after sitting under maintainer for over a year now. After multiple short rides and some longer ones it is still showing a nice 13.4V open circuit and starts the bike like a champ. Maybe I got lucky. I am getting ready to put in my new Shorai to shave the 4.5 lbs weight however, just have to muster the patience to take apart the rear fairings, lift the tank, remove bracket, unmount starter solenoid/ fuse to get to the battery.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I will go the Shorai route also when it is time. I noticed Battery Tender is putting out Lithium batteries at a better price, might be worth taking a look.

2014 MV Agusta F4
Moto Guzzi 1100 Sporti
Yamaha R1
Honda CT90

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 04:32 PM
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I have Shorai on my Ducati and Battery Tender on the MV. Both work just fine. Just pick whatever is cheaper.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fragile View Post
My Koyo is working perfectly still after sitting under maintainer for over a year now. After multiple short rides and some longer ones it is still showing a nice 13.4V open circuit and starts the bike like a champ. Maybe I got lucky. I am getting ready to put in my new Shorai to shave the 4.5 lbs weight however, just have to muster the patience to take apart the rear fairings, lift the tank, remove bracket, unmount starter solenoid/ fuse to get to the battery.
I think you'll only have to remove the seat and the fuel tank bracket.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSR-1 View Post
I think you'll only have to remove the seat and the fuel tank bracket.
Fragile is correct as usual. To make life easier in removal of the Koyo KTZ10S battery in my 2014 F4 I had to do exactly what Fragile said.
With both seats and both rear fairings and the solenoid / fuse holder and the fuel tank bracket out of the way itís much easier to slide the battery out.
After removing all those bits then I disconnected the positive terminal and wrapped tape around it so I wouldnít accidently make contact with it and my metal hand tools.
Then I disconnected the negative terminal and while sliding the battery out I dropped the dam hidden negative terminal nut down into the frame. Took me a few minutes to find the nut.
Before reinstalling the battery I applied tape next to the nuts so they would stay put.
I was one of those kids that liked taking everything apart. I took apart my BMX bicycle so I could spray paint the frame and add lighter weight parts in aluminum.

Mark V.
2014 F4 with ABS
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outatym2001 View Post
Fragile is correct as usual. To make life easier in removal of the Koyo KTZ10S battery in my 2014 F4 I had to do exactly what Fragile said.
With both seats and both rear fairings and the solenoid / fuse holder and the fuel tank bracket out of the way itís much easier to slide the battery out.
After removing all those bits then I disconnected the positive terminal and wrapped tape around it so I wouldnít accidently make contact with it and my metal hand tools.
Then I disconnected the negative terminal and while sliding the battery out I dropped the dam hidden negative terminal nut down into the frame. Took me a few minutes to find the nut.
Before reinstalling the battery I applied tape next to the nuts so they would stay put.
I was one of those kids that liked taking everything apart. I took apart my BMX bicycle so I could spray paint the frame and add lighter weight parts in aluminum.
I guess I'll have to look closer. I've had the battery out about 4 times but maybe I also had other parts removed??? I don't remember.

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2018 Aprilia Tuono 1100
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-25-2015, 06:35 PM
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Thanks to silentservice703 for providing a link to black and white photos of the installation of the battery in the F4.
See post #6.
2010 F4 battery placement
http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=119921

It appears the seats, fuel tank bracket and the left and right rear fairings have been removed before taking the pictures.

Reading all these Battery threads is making my brain hurt. Iíve still got the original Koyo battery and after doing a full charge I put my digital multimeter on the battery terminals and it reads 12.62 volts. From what I understand a fully charged battery should read 13.2 volts. 6 cells x 2.2 volts each = 13.2 volts. I may just get a Yuasa battery (or some other brand) before the Koyo goes dead on me just for peace of mind.
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Mark V.
2014 F4 with ABS
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