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Old 12-28-2012, 09:46 PM   #1
outtadaloop
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Default Fuel Pump Question

Hello everyone,

I haven't been on this forum for quite some years due to having no personal time because of work

The good news is that I still have my SPR but the bad news is that she won't start now

I have narrowed down the problem to being the fuel pump not working (applied 12V directly to the pump and impeller didn't run)

My question is could the pump just be so dirty and clogged that it is stuck? The bike has been sitting for the past few years (I start her once every month or so but haven't changed the gas at all)

If the pump could get stuck, is there a way to clean it out? Or am I just going to have to buy a new part?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:47 PM   #2
outtadaloop
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Just googled and found a cheap generic replacement pump that will work for my bike so just gonna replace it. Thanks anyway!
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Old 12-28-2012, 10:59 PM   #3
Nicolino
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Last edited by Nicolino : 12-28-2012 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:21 AM   #4
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Careful putting the fuel-pump back in.
Might be a good idea to replace the o-ring, and an even better idea to replace the plastic fuel fittings with metal one's if you have done this already.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:43 AM   #5
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Wink pump?

outtadaloop;
Bosch pumps are ~$40+ .....
pull your's out and try to free the impeller, its a permanent magnet motor.......sort of brain dead POS
Donsy has posted a pictorial of my suggestion of epoxying the notches in the bottom of the tank that cut the big O-ring

please replace the plastic male quick disconnects with the metal ones from CAG.......don't buy the chink garbage

PM me a picture of the epoxied fuel tank flange and i'll send you the O-rings for free

beat that
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:57 PM   #6
outtadaloop
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Noel,

Awesome! Thanks so much, I'll be working on her next week and will search for the pictorial and will look into the metal disconnects from CAG. Cheers!
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:08 PM   #7
outtadaloop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donsy View Post
Careful putting the fuel-pump back in.
Might be a good idea to replace the o-ring, and an even better idea to replace the plastic fuel fittings with metal one's if you have done this already.
Thanks Donsy! Will do...
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:03 PM   #8
Donsy
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Post Some idea's here

Quote:
Originally Posted by outtadaloop View Post
Thanks Donsy! Will do...
http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39000

Not all the info is always applicable to everyone, but some good info there.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:39 PM   #9
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Wink

outtadaloop;
go to the auto parts store and buy 12" of SUBMERSIBLE 5/16"/8mm fuel line, the spec is SAE J30R10;
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=541

buy a new fuel filter i use WIX #33012

buy a package of JB Weld Kwik epoxy

buy a tube of Permatex Dielectric grease

do you have some Clic-R pliers? for the fuel and water lines?
get some (ebay ~$19)

have you changed the rear well nuts in your air box to rivnuts?
if you epoxy the notches in the tank flange and send me a picture i'll send you M4 rivnuts to fix the problem along with the O-rings

or you can bring your tank and air box over and i'll help you do it and show you how to replumb the internal lines so they're not such a PITA
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:43 PM   #10
Ian SAVS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theknurl View Post
outtadaloop;
go to the auto parts store and buy 12" of SUBMERSIBLE 5/16"/8mm fuel line, the spec is SAE J30R10;
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=541

buy a new fuel filter i use WIX #33012

buy a package of JB Weld Kwik epoxy

buy a tube of Permatex Dielectric grease

do you have some Clic-R pliers? for the fuel and water lines?
get some (ebay ~$19)

have you changed the rear well nuts in your air box to rivnuts?
if you epoxy the notches in the tank flange and send me a picture i'll send you M4 rivnuts to fix the problem along with the O-rings

or you can bring your tank and air box over and i'll help you do it and show you how to replumb the internal lines so they're not such a PITA
I wish I lived close to you Noel.
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