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Old 04-13-2012, 09:49 PM   #21
revhead1957
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I'm still going back to what has changed...Don't you have to do a TPS reset if you change it? Have you tried subbing another TPS on the chance that the new one is dodgy?
Are you actually getting spark on every plug?
Are you able to address the ecu for a fault code?
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAG View Post
I'm thinking you may be right. It's not the latch relay. It's not the connection at the tps. The ecu is seeing a signal from all three tps wires.

I'm sure there is some electrical connection telling the injectors when to fire and how much. Perhaps something is wrong there and I'm getting way too much fuel or not enough.
Have you had a look at the crank timing sensor Carl, mine did the same thing after a re-build. Somehow it had come loose and the bike turned over but just popped every now and then.

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I know it is a bit weird but check the battery voltage. I have found mine to be very sensitive to voltage. It can have enough juice to crank but then not start.
One other thing is the tip over sensor requires the ignition to be cycled fully off in order to reset.
The bike does not turn over at all with the tilt over sensor activated, and you are right, turning the bike off and then back on resets it.
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:02 PM   #23
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putting back other chip? rarely the breakdown too.
check camshaft timing wheel bolts?
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:09 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revhead1957 View Post
I'm still going back to what has changed...Don't you have to do a TPS reset if you change it? Have you tried subbing another TPS on the chance that the new one is dodgy?
Are you actually getting spark on every plug?
Are you able to address the ecu for a fault code?
I only have two TPS units. The one that broke and the one on the bike now. Both "work" in so far as when connected to an ohm meter the voltage changes when you turn the back of it. (simulate the butteryflys opening and closing.) Yes, getting spark at every plug. I don't have any equipment that would allow me to read a fault code. Where would I buy a code reader or diagnostic tool for the bike?

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Have you had a look at the crank timing sensor Carl, mine did the same thing after a re-build. Somehow it had come loose and the bike turned over but just popped every now and then.


The bike does not turn over at all with the tilt over sensor activated, and you are right, turning the bike off and then back on resets it.
I changed the crank timing sensor with no positive result. The bike is an '04.

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putting back other chip? rarely the breakdown too.
check camshaft timing wheel bolts?
Camshaft timing wheel bolts? I'm not sure what you mean. I haven't opened the stator cover to see if anything is going on in there.

Last edited by CAG : 04-14-2012 at 05:11 AM.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:15 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobP View Post
I know it is a bit weird but check the battery voltage. I have found mine to be very sensitive to voltage. It can have enough juice to crank but then not start.
One other thing is the tip over sensor requires the ignition to be cycled fully off in order to reset.
12.3 volts on either side of the fuses. I've been alternating between two batteries. Is that too low? I haven't taken a reading at the battery posts.

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Will it fire up if you hold the throttle wide open? My bike did this to me twice last week, from cold it wouldn't fire up unless it was wide open, as if it was flooded. But then it's been fine since....
No. Not at all. I tried that. A little flame from cylinder #2 once in a while, but not even a stumble.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:32 AM   #26
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Bugger Carl, you did a good job here mate. The cam timing sensor is above cyl #4 where the exhaust pipe come's out of the head, check if you did not damage that cable with the new pipe installation.

The battery voltage is fine as far as I can figure it.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:09 AM   #27
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You have a picture of that Dons? There is nothing above #4. The only wires coming out of the cylinder head or cylinder is the temp sensor.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:12 AM   #28
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Quote:
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You have a picture of that Dons? There is nothing above #4. The only wires coming out of the cylinder head or cylinder is the temp sensor.

Other #4 Carl, I'll just check if the 750 is in the same spot as the 1000 - R/h side. Give me a sec.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:26 AM   #29
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2004 didn't have cam sensor. As a matter of fact, no MV with 16M ECu uses a cam sensor.
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Old 04-14-2012, 06:27 AM   #30
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Red face Bugger again

Okay you don't have the cam sensor on the 750 Carl, I am just going throught the drawings now. Keep in the back of your mind always that it ids likely something to do with what oyu have done so far, that's the norm. But, and there is always a but.
Take the F4 cover off and have a look at the timing wheel and sensor (Phonic wheel ? ).
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