Rcs levers fitting issue

MvMerito · 01-10-2011, 02:06 PM

My mechanic's fitting brembo rcs levers to my F4 but, on full lock the lever adjuster turn dial hits the clocks !

All I can think is to weld a new steering lock stop to prevent this, has anyone else had this issue and solved it more simply ??

merc07 · 01-10-2011, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamesblond

My mechanic's fitting brembo rcs levers to my F4 but, on full lock the lever adjuster turn dial hits the clocks !

All I can think is to weld a new steering lock stop to prevent this, has anyone else had this issue and solved it more simply ??

Don't worry about it. It's only the brake that just touches and it's only when it's just off full lock, won't do any damage to the clock, it just applies the brake slighhtly ! I think I lowered the rcs slightly any way so you don't have to raise your hand to grab the lever - That gave a bit more room from the clocks.

Just remember when your moving the bike around by hand !

You will soon get used to it.

Adam

JDS · 01-10-2011, 02:22 PM

Hey Double Agent James

Have you tried the later type F4 1000 bars ?.. They also improve the angle of the bar and makes it slighly more comfortable on the wrists..

Also, if you stopped bashing your bishop 5 times a day, your wrists won't ake as much..

jomarti1 · 01-10-2011, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamesblond

My mechanic's fitting brembo rcs levers to my F4 but, on full lock the lever adjuster turn dial hits the clocks !

All I can think is to weld a new steering lock stop to prevent this, has anyone else had this issue and solved it more simply ??

Yes, it happened to my bike, and it was fixed by my mechanic. I didn't want to have the bike like that. I know he changed the limmiter of turn by a couple of mm. It's perfect now, and I can still lock it, when parked. I'll try to ask him about it, but not sure when to come back and give you the info. Maybe somebody else will help you sooner.

MvMerito · 01-10-2011, 02:48 PM

Thanks all and hey John iv just got naturally well developed forearms, mostly from digging 6'x6 holes to re home dopey forum comment posters :-)

I could get used to the whole love thing but it will niggle me on an otherwise no holds barred project so I'd really like it solved.

Jo, your spanner man had the best solution, I'll pass on your info and wait for you to update me on how it was achieved. If you could maybe take a photo of lock stop? Its an image that will probably tell an explanatory story.

Donsy · 01-10-2011, 05:10 PM

I had the same issue, I just moved the M/C closer to the throttle housing, it looks like you still have some room left on the bars ? Do not worry about removing those OEM locking pins in the switch gear, better to move them than have the front wheel lock up when you moving the bike around.

postman_bat · 01-10-2011, 05:19 PM

knob snot you could try adjusting the clock bracket may be pack it a bit

or dont bother with those levers and give them to a bat that will use them to there full potenial

bstar360 · 01-10-2011, 06:15 PM

1. You could move the bars through the clamps a bit looks like you have a few mm.
2. Try to rotate the RCS on the bar.
3. Slide the RCS along the bar, I think that's pretty much what Donsy said.
I had a similar problem on the Duke.

theknurl · 01-11-2011, 12:35 AM

what Donsy said ^^^^

gotojoe · 01-11-2011, 05:42 AM

James..Donsy's suggestion is correct. If you ever want to go to the later 0/e bars for ergonomic reasons I have a spare set..They look nicer too imho ! Anyway if you are so inclined ..I'll let you try them and see if you like..Be a good excuse for a blat out to Harboro'
joe

01-10-2011, 02:06 PM	#1
MvMerito Senior Member MV in the Registry: [F4S 750] [View photo album] Join Date: May 2009 Location: Market Harborough, U.K Posts: 1,004	Rcs levers fitting issue My mechanic's fitting brembo rcs levers to my F4 but, on full lock the lever adjuster turn dial hits the clocks ! All I can think is to weld a new steering lock stop to prevent this, has anyone else had this issue and solved it more simply ?? Attached Images __________________ "The first rule of Italian driving: Whats behind me is not important" 'The Gumball Rally' 1976 Last edited by MvMerito : 01-10-2011 at 02:13 PM.

01-10-2011, 02:22 PM	#3
JDS King of Bling MV in the Registry: [F4 1000 Tamburini] [View photo album] Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 5,819	Hey Double Agent James Have you tried the later type F4 1000 bars ?.. They also improve the angle of the bar and makes it slighly more comfortable on the wrists.. Also, if you stopped bashing your bishop 5 times a day, your wrists won't ake as much.. __________________ Home of The Original CORSESuperleggera #01 MV F4 Corse Superleggera # 01 Ducati 1098R ELR 1068cc EMAIL : john@jandrdasilva.co.uk “Life is a waste of time, and time is a waste of life. Get wasted all the time, and you'll have the time of your life!”....

01-10-2011, 02:48 PM	#5
MvMerito Senior Member MV in the Registry: [F4S 750] [View photo album] Join Date: May 2009 Location: Market Harborough, U.K Posts: 1,004	Thanks all and hey John iv just got naturally well developed forearms, mostly from digging 6'x6 holes to re home dopey forum comment posters :-) I could get used to the whole love thing but it will niggle me on an otherwise no holds barred project so I'd really like it solved. Jo, your spanner man had the best solution, I'll pass on your info and wait for you to update me on how it was achieved. If you could maybe take a photo of lock stop? Its an image that will probably tell an explanatory story. __________________ "The first rule of Italian driving: Whats behind me is not important" 'The Gumball Rally' 1976 Last edited by MvMerito : 01-10-2011 at 02:51 PM.

01-10-2011, 05:10 PM	#6
Donsy Senior Member MV in the Registry: [F4 1000 R] [View photo album] Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Western Australia Posts: 9,270	Hhhmm I had the same issue, I just moved the M/C closer to the throttle housing, it looks like you still have some room left on the bars ? Do not worry about removing those OEM locking pins in the switch gear, better to move them than have the front wheel lock up when you moving the bike around. __________________ Dons Nel Manuals are here - http://www.teamdouble3racing.com/manuals

01-10-2011, 05:19 PM	#7
postman_bat Jason + Stanley Knife + D.I.Y = Casualty and MV in the Registry: [F4 1000] [View photo album] Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 1,044	knob snot you could try adjusting the clock bracket may be pack it a bit or dont bother with those levers and give them to a bat that will use them to there full potenial __________________ life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but by the moments that take our breath away

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01-10-2011, 06:15 PM	#8
bstar360 Senior Member No MVs in the Registry Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Australia Posts: 295	1. You could move the bars through the clamps a bit looks like you have a few mm. 2. Try to rotate the RCS on the bar. 3. Slide the RCS along the bar, I think that's pretty much what Donsy said. I had a similar problem on the Duke.

01-11-2011, 12:35 AM	#9
theknurl Senior Member MV in the Registry: [F4 1000] [Brutale 910 R] Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Palos Verdes Est, SoCal, USA Posts: 6,152	what Donsy said ^^^^ __________________ The Forum Curmudgeon i'm not PC either Noel-theknurl ph. 310-540-4823 PST, GMT -8 email, PayPal; theknurl@yahoo.com Skype; theknurl

01-11-2011, 05:42 AM	#10
gotojoe Senior Member MV in the Registry: [F4 1000 R] [View photo album] Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Warwickshire UK Posts: 5,277	James..Donsy's suggestion is correct. If you ever want to go to the later 0/e bars for ergonomic reasons I have a spare set..They look nicer too imho ! Anyway if you are so inclined ..I'll let you try them and see if you like..Be a good excuse for a blat out to Harboro' joe

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