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Fuel line modification

172K views 447 replies 74 participants last post by  TPB 
#1 · (Edited)
Part 1
Okay, I know this has been round the block a few times but as I still get quite a few e-mail's and PM's about the subject I thought I'd better have a go at doing a bit of a foto session.
KEEP IN MIND THAT THIS IS BEING DONE ON THE METAL TANK OF AN F4 PRE-2010, BRUTALE HAS A PLASTIC TANK AND SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT FUEL PUMP O-RING CONFIGURATION, SO ONLY USE THE INFO AS APPLICABLE TO YOUR BIKE.

Question 1. How do I go about
a. Replacing the plastic fuel fittings with the metal fittings if my fuel lines are also damaged etc. (You should replace those plastic fuel fittings regardless)
b. How do you replace the plastic fittings on the fuel pump plate with metal one's - only if you want - I wanted to and you should too.
Question 2. How do I prevent the big o-ring from getting cut every time I remove and re-install my fuel pump.
Question 3. How do you get by struggling with those short fuel lines in the tank.
4. Where can I buy these fuel fittings. Look below or towards forum sponsors.

I will take photo's and add them as I go along, I have the tank and everything spare, so if there are any bit's you would like to see, then ask and I will take more pic's and post them as we go along.

The reason for this is, my fuel fittings never broke, but the first time I took my tank off after a really small 80kph low-side, I saw those fittings and they scared me, then I had to take the tank apart as one of the fuel lines popped in the tank and upon re-assembly I pinched the big o-ring. So here goes.

Please feel free to ask questions or add comments or opinions, this is after all were we are supposed to learn things, I did, and still do.
Add a bit of common sence to my findings and read the manual before attempting any work on your bike, please.

Included in the bottom picture is some purchase info shared by "varium", just remember that you don't HAVE to replace the fuel tank fittings as they never give problems.
From Forum Sponsors - http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=202050
http://www.e-securedsite.com/gutsyp...ay=0&filterFor=&collection=40|MV Agusta Store

I'll post the part numbers from CPC and RS Components, but keep in mind that these fittings are still available directly from several forum sponsors- Double check part number and thread size, they vary between suppliers.
LCD10004BSPT - 1/4" NPT thread size female tank fitting - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hose-couplings/3872511/ - RS #387-2511
From CPC - the valved part - http://www.cpcworldwide.com/Product-List/Series/14/Category/52?Product=397

LCD23006V - Male 90deg 3/8"
LCD23004V - Male 90deg 1/4"

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/hose-couplings/3872527/


Scroll to post number #52 for a great lay-out of the another conversion by a member. - http://www.mvagusta.net/forum/showthread.php?t=39000&page=6

And here's a Loctite compatibility .pdf for those in need of more info http://www.loctite.co.th/tht/content_data/LT836_MRO_Fluid_Compatibility_Chart.pdf

And the bloody big O-ring size - https://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catalog.do?e=10&s=102197419&type=a
4 5/8" ID; 4 7/8" OD; 1/8" Cross Section Diameter; Nitrile Buna N; 70 Durometer; O-Ring
 

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#87 · (Edited)
#88 ·
Great thread Donsy, I did this without a hitch, iPad at my side. I went with Noel's venting method, so I don't have to mess with unplugging hoses next time I need to change the filter, then I just clamped a bit of the leftover hose between the two vent fittings on the pump base, simply because I don't have a full thread tap set.
I found the 5/16 high pressure FI line to be the good fit myself.
 

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#89 ·
In addition

I have a hard time with reading comprehension sometimes, and I do much better with pictures and diagrams. I was having trouble understanding Noel's venting method, without having the tank and system in front of me. Here is a good diagram so that you don't have to unplug hoses whenever you remove the fuel pump. It comes out just like the pic above.
 

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#232 ·
I have a hard time with reading comprehension sometimes, and I do much better with pictures and diagrams. I was having trouble understanding Noel's venting method, without having the tank and system in front of me. Here is a good diagram so that you don't have to unplug hoses whenever you remove the fuel pump. It comes out just like the pic above.
I just wanna know wtf that 13' bottom section of hose is attached to! It's nothing on the fuel base plate.
 
#91 ·
Hi Donsy & others,

Great thread I have done all of the fuel line mod but I am unsure of what type of "John Guest" fitting I need to hook onto the fuel rail.
I have done a google search and the main suppliers in melbourne are caravan accessory companies and they use them for water type connections. I'm a bit wary of using a water fitting as it may fail with fuel use? or are they all fit for purpose?

Can anyone suggest where to get them and what type or part number it is.

Thanks in advance

Regards

Murf
 
#92 ·
Hi Donsy & others,

Great thread I have done all of the fuel line mod but I am unsure of what type of "John Guest" fitting I need to hook onto the fuel rail.
I have done a google search and the main suppliers in melbourne are caravan accessory companies and they use them for water type connections. I'm a bit wary of using a water fitting as it may fail with fuel use? or are they all fit for purpose?

Can anyone suggest where to get them and what type or part number it is.

Thanks in advance

Regards

Murf
Any reason why you don't use the one's on the bike Murf ?
Don't use the caravan one's, they are not suitable for fuel.
 
#93 ·
Hi Donsy,
I am after the ones where the red arrow is pointing. I have new fuel line with the metal fitting as shown on the green arrow. Unless I am not getting the gist of it, I thought that the fitting on the end of the OEM hose is not removable or adaptable, thus not being able to use it again.

Thanks

Murf
 
#94 ·
Hi Donsy,
I am after the ones where the red arrow is pointing. I have new fuel line with the metal fitting as shown on the green arrow. Unless I am not getting the gist of it, I thought that the fitting on the end of the OEM hose is not removable or adaptable, thus not being able to use it again.

Thanks

Murf
That is the standard JG fittings re-used Murf, later models where black, just be carefull when removing them from the hose, they have a little o-ring on them that is good to keep.
 

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#101 ·
If anybody is looking for a source of "Click-R" clamps in Aus these guys sell them in packs of 10 or 100:

http://www.autopartswholesalers.com.au/
Thanks Jeremy, good link, over here all the Industrial and Commercial suppliers sell them per piece, they are commonly used to attach air line fittings to the hoses etc.
 
#104 ·
My experiences...

I completed this on the weekend and have the following feedback.

I tried using 3/8 hose first (which is harder to get hold of in high pressure) and found it was too inflexible and far too large for the JG couplings on the fuel fail. The 5/16 hose was much more flexible, didn't kink, was a perfect fit on the OEM rail couplings and fitted fine on the 3/8 CPC fittings with a little rubber grease to help them on their way. :)

I couldn't feel a lip on the tank opening and there wasn't much to fill so maybe they sorted this out on the later bikes, or else I was just lucky?

I elected to leave the fuel/water drain "Y" outside the tank and just fitted cable ties to stop it from coming lose. My theory was that 2 submerged fittings are better than 4 and a plastic "Y" in the tank?(Is the OEM 'Y" fitting rated for submersion?)

Thanks to Donsy for the detailed instructions and the "change those bloody fittings" encouragement..:thewife:

 
#105 ·
What is the thread pitch for the 6mm extractor screws?
 
#108 ·
Hmmm, the screws I bought were 6 mm 1.00 and they worked a treat....???
 
#109 ·
Sorry I didn't see this earlier Chuck, in general, or the most commonly used metric sizes are:
M4x 0.7mm
M5x 0.8mm
M6x 1.0mm
M8x 1.25mm
M10x 1.5mm although the M10 frame bolts on the MV are
M10x 1.25mm if I'm not mistaken.

I'll check later to confirm.
 
#110 ·
Thanks for that, Dons. I have my pump out and the evap can out. Today I am getting the vacuum caps, fuel filter, and some new low pressure hose. Should be back up and running today.
 
#111 ·
Just read through this thread and looks like I have something to do during the off season. I like the idea of doing preventative maintenance so I will be looking for some other items to do to the Brutale. Thanks for all the helpful information guys
 
#112 ·
I have just spent the morning going from auto store to hardware store to lawn and garden shop only to be disappointed time and again. For the life of me when a phone call is placed and a question is asked and answered in the affirmative, why should the result be...oh, we don't have that. Frustrating beyond belief.

For the record, what is the spec on the OTHER hose...not the J30R10... in the fuel tank?
Also, for those of you who have gotten the "Y" connectors...where and what material?

Thanking this community in advance, as the rest of New England in the USA has gone daft!
 
#114 ·
On my second tank I followed Noel's route with going to the drain hole in the tank instead of the drain hole in the fuel pump base, either way has the same result and makes very little difference, I prefer the drain being under the base plate as it puts all the "connections" in one spot. Both times I used Y piece from existing external connection.
When it came to doing some customers tank, which have lost the Y connectors, I found others at both auto parts suppliers as well as hydraulic engineering suppliers.
I can get brass, plastic or chromed (steel & brass), let me know if you guys would like me to send some over.

As for the hose, same thing, hydraulic hose supplier.
 
#115 · (Edited)
Hot starting issues again,now i know its not the leads,so i have bubbles in the tank on my 1078 brutale ,first off this model has 2 o rings and a plastic tank no need for filler or locktite ,just a bit of grease around the 2 o rings when putting it back together,very easy.

So when it was pulled out it looked perfect no cracks no holes no wear,but anyway i changed all the pipes and used sss hose clamps.just so everyone is aware change the 2 small O rings on the fuel lines that connect to the tank as i am pretty sure this is where the air is getting in a 20 cent fix and would take you 10 minutes to do.DO THIS FIRST.Plus i would not use locktite on plastic tanks as i have witnessed people trying to undo bolts and all that happens is they start spinning around in the plastic.

Cheers Eddy
 
#117 ·
Not the fuel line "modification" I had in mind...

Working my way through everything on my Brutale since it's a 10-year-old used bike and who knows what condition everything is in. Figuring out what needs to be done ASAP, and what can wait 1,500 mi until I do the 7,500 mile service. I lifted my fuel tank up a bit to investigate how things looked.

On the plus side, my assumption was wrong that it would be the original 10 yr old fuel lines. On the down side, it looks like someone broke the quick connects and called a plumber in order to fix them. On the other down side, that SPU is very blue.

Guess I better hit up CAG to add fittings to my order, and figure out a plan to drain/syphon all the gas from the tank to remove those

As an aside, two 2x4s stacked up under the back of the tank (right under where the bolt goes) worked perfectly to raise the tank up and give room to see/work under there had there been quick disconnects that I needed to unplug. I had my gf helping me this time, but would have been easy enough to do solo
 

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#120 ·
Will do. I'll probably check out the info in the post that you screengrabbed at the beginning of the thread. Looked a bit more affordable than going through an MV parts specialist.

"Crazy job" sounds fitting (intended). When I think about tools I'll need for working on motorcycles, I don't think "better have a pipe wrench!"
 
#121 · (Edited)
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