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2010 + Hub Bearings & Seals

3K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  rchase 
#1 · (Edited)
Took the hub out of my 1090 today, its done 13,000 miles and it seems fine but thinking of replacing of the bearings and seals whilst its out.

Does anyone know the seal and bearing(s) size/designation?

thanks
 
#2 · (Edited)
Hey Shaun,

I have a 2010 Hub here. There are two needle roller bearings, one wheel side and one sprocket side. They are same size as the needle roller ( only one ) in pre 2010 Hub and aren't known to fail. size 5520

There is also a single row deep groove ball bearing size 810 on the wheel side of the 2010 hub.

If you want I can take my hub to Hayleys tomorrow who supply industrial bearings and ask them for a price for a *** or SKF quality bearing for the 810..

Unless you have had some kind of failure in the hub I would check, clean and regrease the needle rollers. I can't imagine there would be any issue with them as even in the old style hubs they weren't known to fail.

he seal on the sprocket side is well protected and I would simply prise it out carefully and reuse it.

As for removing the bearings they can be drifted out after removing the Seager ring. I usually give my bearing installation work to Henry who has all the kit and kaboodle to do it and pay him a tenner ; ).

joe
 

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#3 ·
hello Joe, thanks for this, since posting read a few other threads and plenty by you on the subject and removed the thrust bearing today, de-greased and re-greased the needle rollers, all are good so will leave the bearings until next year. Shaun
 
#5 ·
hello Joe, the thrust bearing isn't an interference fit, just a light tap and its out after removing the Seager ring, the needle rollers are however much tighter so decided not to try and remove them. Not sure if any of the 3 brg hubs have failed but if they have my guess is the thrust bearing is the weak point. Shaun
 
#6 ·
Hi Shaun..There are a couple of reports of thrust bearings failing ..but to be honest who knows what happened to cause it. I suspect over tight chain and/or pinch bolts. In fact I bet 99.9 % of the time this is what causes failure in the pre 2010 hubs.

From everything I have read I can't see any issue whatsoever with your needle rollers..

atb

joe
 
#7 ·
For those who have asked these are the parts needed for the 2010 + hub

INA G55x63x5 Oil seal x3
HK5520 Drawn Cup Type Needle Roller Bearing With Two Open Ends 55x63x20mm x 2
SKF 618102RS1 Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 50x65x7mm x 1

Typical designations as above.

Shaun
 
#11 ·
Just read some specs on the 61810 bearing.Don't really like where it says Quality-Electric motor quality.Hopefully that means it can handle high speed.Also loosing the interferance fit maybe a future problem with wear and movement,we will see.Smart on MVs part to put 2 needle roller bearings side by side to stop the dangerious flat rear tyre feeling when the ball bearing collapses on earlier models. View attachment Document.pdf
 
#14 ·
Just read some specs on the 61810 bearing.Don't really like where it says Quality-Electric motor quality.Hopefully that means it can handle high speed.Also loosing the interferance fit maybe a future problem with wear and movement,we will see.Smart on MVs part to put 2 needle roller bearings side by side to stop the dangerious flat rear tyre feeling when the ball bearing collapses on earlier models. View attachment 67360

" Flat Tyre feeling" That's an understatement Mitchy...basically if the ball bearing collapses on the pre 2010 models..You're in "SXit street".

I haven't heard of any reports on the 2010 + failure symptoms but I can think of better ways to end a ride out..


I had a tubed tyre puncture on my old beemer. I rapidly found myself dumped on the wrong side of the road.:wtf: 20 seconds later a big rig truck thundered around the bend...I was a lucky boy that day..

joe
 
#12 ·
?

Mitch;
a 170HP electric motor????? not even!
top usual rpm is 3,600 for electric motors

the duty cycle for an electric motor is WAY higher than for an IC motor, because of the vibration......not to mention the HP
 
#15 ·
Mitch;
a 170HP electric motor????? not even!
top usual rpm is 3,600 for electric motors

the duty cycle for an electric motor is WAY higher than for an IC motor, because of the vibration......not to mention the HP

Let's see, checking the spec on my Nuky Plant's 5000 HP ELECTRIC Motor Driven Feed Pumps.......
 
#16 ·
I initially thought the bearing should be a light interference fit but maybe not now I have thought about it.

A common problem with many assemblies is the build up of tolerances and you would need very accurate tolerancing on each assembly part to use an interference fit on the thrust bearing outer race. (less than the thrust bearing axial clearance)

Build up errors could translate in an excessive pre-load during assembly which is not good for bearing life and would only get worse with heat build up.

The deformation of the hub when clamped maybe enough to nip the outer race to stop it spinning, hence the torque being stated on the hub.

Not an expert but know enough to be dangerous :)
 
#17 ·
billy,I think you are spot on.MV have gone from light interference fit to loose fit.Most likely from their previous mistake using an inadequate bearing (3810),light interference fit,hollowed hub with the pinch bolt torque that disstortes hub and preloads bearing too much.I also believe maybe inconsistant tollerances gave you a hub that lasted or one that died.Thats saying that owners/mechanics follow MVs rules on maintainance etc.I know when my engineer (Mad Mick) gives me a batch of hubs to check before packing.There have been a couple where he has been only .0001 out on machining and the ball bearings (2) are tight to turn,so back they go and he says "what in the fuck do you want now" thats how he talks,but we both know machining tolerances have to be perfect if you want the hub to last.So MV does realise there has been a problem in the past after 10 odd years and now are trying to resolve the issue.
 
#19 ·
61810-2rs?

Mitch;
'after 10 odd years.....are trying to resolve the issue'

with a smaller bearing?????

the original 3810-2RS was 50mm x 65mm x 12mm with 2 rows of balls....and it doesn't work
the new '10+ 61810-2RS is 50mm x 65mm x 7mm with only 1 row of balls

this is an 'extra extra light' service bearing.....think it will handle 170HP???? NOT ME

its a robotics bearing for ultra precision applications with 1-2 HP DC stepper motors in INTERMITTENT use

MV needs an engineer :wtf::wtf::wtf::wtf:
 
#20 ·
Noel I agree with you about the light bearing,but now its supported by 2 needle roller bearings to share the load.So if it shits itself,you won't know until the owners next service or maybe the metal shavings spotted on the wheel rim.Noel I need you to answer a question for me (mind you I should Sype you on this instead of asking on here).CRC which is contracted by MV to make certain parts.CRC make rear hubs for Ducati,MV,and I think Triumph.Why does MV end up with the shitty hub whereas the other brands get a hub which is quite reliable.I have always wondered about this.On the side if I don't get to talk to you Merry Xmas.
 
#21 ·
Mitch;
simple, MV 'designs' a hub, they send it to CRC, CRC sends it out to be made......'hey, put our name on it' IE, nobody gives a shit and they all got paid......and you found a new thing to do:drummer:

i bought a new hood (front bonnet) for my Mother's '75 280S Benz, new in the box with the correct part number and ID stampings for $140......
Mercedes didn't make them.....they sub it out.....so the local guys supply the gray market Factory parts:jsm:

now go to the MB dealer and buy it:shitfan::shitfan::bawling::bawling:
:popcorn:
 
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