Just installed a set of race hooks to fill in the space left when I removed the pillion pegs. A nice product with high quality. Purchased from Design Corse. They were advertised for the F3, but the package was labeled F4 '10 - and I had to make some minor mods to make them fit. First the rear spacer had to be removed (17mm wrench, easy). The two long rear cap screws supplied with the hooks had to be shortened to match the front screws. It will be much easier to tie the bike down in the trailer with these hooks. Much less risk of damage to the bodywork as well.
Still laughing at the Titanic comment better get a parachute, the fiscal cliff is just ahead!
Back to your question - I NEVER tie the handlebars down - too hard on fork seals. In my enclosed trailer the front wheel is in a race chock (Harbor Freight, $70) that is bolted to the trailer floor so the front suspension is free to move naturally. The race hooks will just allow me to provide some lateral and vertical stability with tie downs. Truth be known, the race chock is enough all by itself for most trips but the straps need to be there for rough roads, emergencies, etc.
Great to hear you got them and fitted them:f4:, These Racing hooks are not specific for the F3 bikes from Sato. you simply need to remove the spacer from the rear which pull off easily with a set of pliers.
The Bolts that come with the hooks fit perfectly but if you want to shorten them then either you can use the original rear-peg bolts or simply swap out the rear-set bolts with the sato ones.
Indeed you are right which ever tools you have available and i was just adding that you can swap over the Bolts from the rearsets onto the hooks and vice versa.
I kept the Sato bolts because they look better than the stock ones, are probably less corrosion-prone than the stock ones and - the clincher - the original peg bolts were already packed away with the pegs. Engine covers are next!!
I kept the Sato bolts because they look better than the stock ones, are probably less corrosion-prone than the stock ones and - the clincher - the original peg bolts were already packed away with the pegs. Engine covers are next!!
The first thing I did immediately after taking the bike's delivery was to remove the passenger footpegs and install these race hooks. I did this just outside the dealership and everyone at the dealership was wondering what I am doing with hand tools to a 0 mile bike! LOL
Two advantages of using the hooks compared to rails:
1. You don't scratch the rails.
2. You can easily hook the tie down to the race hook without having to tie a knot. Requires less fiddling and super easy.
Not trying to be a P.I.T.A. here, Shashank...I just think there was some other issue that caused seal failure. I have towed many a bike many thousands of miles with the front suspension under load and never a seal failure. If dynamics load on a front fork caused seal failures, then they'd be failing every day during rides and on track days under heavy braking or racing conditions. Dirt is the main culprit for seal failure...like sandpaper on a smooth surface....my $00.02
I have to agree, the only way I have ever transported bikes was with a bar harness and tie downs, and a front wheel chock, with the pillion pegs as a secondary if possible. I didn't know if you could use these hooks as the primary tie down, sans handlebars, hence my question.
Just installed a set of race hooks to fill in the space left when I removed the pillion pegs. A nice product with high quality. Purchased from Design Corse. They were advertised for the F3, but the package was labeled F4 '10 - and I had to make some minor mods to make them fit. First the rear spacer had to be removed (17mm wrench, easy). The two long rear cap screws supplied with the hooks had to be shortened to match the front screws. It will be much easier to tie the bike down in the trailer with these hooks. Much less risk of damage to the bodywork as well.
It does appear that the factory front tie downs are parallel to the front forks to minimize side loads on the seals....
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