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Refurberd the hub today

18K views 59 replies 24 participants last post by  Sundodger 
#1 · (Edited)
Well today I returned the rear hub ready for the the forth coming riding season here in the uk if the weather arrives bike has covered 18400 miles and last time this was done was 12000 miles ago so thought it was time to do it bearings were fine when I got the hub out no failers but once it was out I may aswell replace and refurb the whole hub another job done on the old girl

But must say I couldn't of done it without the help of john (jds) well when I say help I mean he actually did it for me I just held stuff lol

Hub stripped down cleaned and ready for new bearings and seals





Nice new bearings ready to go in





New bearings in new seals and all greased up ready to back into swing arm



Bike up on a makeshift abba stand can u spot how we did it





Here is away of saving urself money buying a Abbas stand guys simply turn the footpegs over and use two axle stands bike is very secure and stable


Whilst she was off gave her some new rear be six mrr race pads lovely

All cleaned and fitted


JUST NEED THE BRITISH WEATHER TO GIVE US SOME RIDING WEATHER NOW PLEASE COME ON

Like to say a big thank you to john for all the help ( doing the job ) and suppling the bearings and seal kit to start with thanks again mate your a diamond
 
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#3 · (Edited)
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My pleasure Woodster..

The only problem we had was getting the axle side nut off, which was unusual because it's normally the wheel nut that can be a sod to remove..

I recon you caught the bearing just in time before they began to fail (good catch), but considering the mileage you had out of them, you didn’t do to bad..

It was nice of Scott down at Staples Corner to allow us accesses to his bearing press, otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to do this hub refurbishment.. And he made us a decent cup of tea, which was a bonus considering it was in a non franchise Mercedes dealer… :laughing:

It was a good idea to turn the foot hanger’s upside down to allow the bike to be supported on the axle stands.. Good thinking Batman.. :yo:

I little tip for you guys doing this overhaul at home is to heat the hub up before installing the new bearings and if it’s at all possible (which in 99.9% of cases it isn’t) place the new bearings in the freezer over night, as this helps facilitate the installation of the new bearings .

.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Good thread guys. John, Do you think that given the fragility of the bearings that it makes sense as general advice to the home mechanic, when re-furbing the hub to do the disassembly yourself and if you are not experienced in bearing removal and refitting, to hand the unit to an engineer with the bearing press and pay a few quid for piece of mind. That's how you did it and that's how I do it. Once I start thinking of swinging a hammer I take a step back ..; )

With regards to supporting the bike on axle stands and inverting the pegs...I did it this way but there is no need to touch the pegs. The bike should be supported inboard at the peg pivot point. This is the strongest part of the assembly and less of a " lever arm " effect..and of course no need to take the pegs apart..

joe
 

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#5 ·
We did everything our selfs its a relatively easy job if you take your time and don't rush it no need to pay someone if u have a little patients and mechanical know how

I turned the pegs around just to give a more stable base for stands as I didn't want the tops of axle stands that close to frame plates

Over all was a relativity easy job like john says heat hub makes it a lot easier and access to a bearing press was vital

So thanks john again mate and thanks to my mate scoot for excess to press and your lad making tea
 
#7 ·
Joe, don't ever ask how we did Carlos's bearings in my garage...Alex can swing a mean hammer...and no one lost an eye!:smoking:
 
#9 ·
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Hey Joe

Drifting the old bearings out is the easy part and most competent self taught home mechanics should be able to manage that task.

<O:p</O:pHowever, installing the new bearings is a different matter and I wouldn’t even attempt doing that process without a proper hydraulic press..

So to answer your question Joe, yes I think it's a no brainer not to pay someone to install the new bearings if you haven't got access to a hydraulic press or aren't confident in installing interference fit bearings.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

I know there is an MV Technical Advise link on the internet showing the use of a normal bench vice to install the new bearings, but I wouldn’t advise that method be used.. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

The needle bearing cage is so flimsy that is could be easily damaged if installed on the piss.. Also, I recon it’s critical that the RS bearing be installed with the minimal amount of effort to increase its longevity. This is why it’s advisable to heat up the hub casing to aid the installation process. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

Normally when I support an MV on the axle stands, I remove the foot pegs completely and install a long bolt into the frame plate and rest the bike on this bolt.. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find these bolts and Woodster didn’t have any in his garage, so we improvised with the “ Heath Robinson” affair and inverted the OEM foot pegs.. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

My problem is that I want to install a set of magnesium frame plates on my F4 and have no means to do this swap over with the limited facilities I have in my own garage.. I’ve never done this frame plate swap over before and I’m not looking forward to doing it either.. Truth be told, it’s one of the main excuses that’s been holding me back from doing my F4 project bike..

PS: Chuck.. I suspect your joking about the "Shock & Awe" technique..:ahhh:


<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
 
#11 ·
HI John, I wish I were joking...at that particular point.
I have done bearing swaps with minimal tooling since my submarine days in the Navy,and on this occasion, we got lucky.
Patience is the key...and a good drift for removal. I have a bronze rod that I use for just such instances and shape it as necessary for the evolution at hand. I cut the inner race of the ball bearing and removed it. The outer race is a tight fit, so I cut a relief in it. I figured we'd just flip it over on the bench and give it a whack...we did...it shattered. Pieces everywhere...no one hurt...safety glasses for all.

The install is really straight forward as long as the seating surface is clean and you have a method to seat the new bearing...say an old outer race with a bit taken off the diameter so it doesn't stick. A good vice and an inspection mirror...or a steady, slow, methodical hammer hand with a block and voila.

I'm not sure I'd do the needle the same way...it does look to be flimsy. But those don't really fail often.
 
#12 ·
Today, I'd probably go get some Dry Ice, pack the bearing in that, heat the hub a bit and drop the bearings in place.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Hey John...

If you need any help.....not with insertion but fitting your plates give me a shout ; )

I'm not a master mechanic but I have had these things in bits a goodly few times now.

Essentially you need to support the bike at the engine points. Critical to stabilize the swing arm so the shock doesn't open up as you remove the swing arm pivot bolt.If it shifts out of line it's a right tit to line the holes up for yes, " insertion " of the pivot bolt. How do I know this !! ?..Then it's pretty straight forward...

I'll gladly come and help you as chief bottle washer and tea maker..In fact I'd like to...


Here's a couple of pics

joe
 

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#15 ·
Well, I do have access to a Nuclear Machine Shop and some great mechanics....
 
#16 · (Edited)
Hey Joe

I might take you up on that offer if you don't mind.. I want to replace the swinging arm, frame plates and OEM shock all at the same time with the mag parts and a new Ohlin unit..

I can't do it by myself, so a pair of experienced hands would be greatly appreciated.. Cheers !


Chuck... Aren't you glad the hospital surgeons didn't use your methods to fix your joints.. Poor MV hub.. :bawling:



.
 
#18 ·
Chuck... Aren't you glad the hospital surgeons didn't use your methods to fix your joints.. Poor MV hub.. :bawling:[/FONT][/COLOR]


.
Actually, it's not too far removed....:jsm::smoking:
I mean, it is really only carpentry on bone.
 
#19 · (Edited)
As far as traceability goes if you wish to be certain you can buy from an ISO 9002 registered outlet. They are required to keep a paper trail right back to manufacturing and raw materials.

Thats how aircraft mfrs do it.
apart from Boeing Batteries. They seem to have purchased from a dodgy ebay vendor in China ; )

The std is now ISO /IEC 20000 edit
 
#20 ·
The important thing is that you took advantage of down time in winter and thoroughly refurbed your hub.
This is much better to read than ...oh me oh my I have had a hub failure.

Is it required to remove the needle roller...Usually no..
and if just doing an intermediate service then a clean check and regrease is fine imho.

If I were taking out the wheel side bearing I would also remove the needle brg.
Right or wrong thats what Id do.
In this instance Your way..is also my way.

Good work
joe
 
#22 ·
So tell me please???

I fitted brand new INA bearings at £100 plus and had them fitted by a motorcycle mechanic using MV settings and instruction and without listing every critical torque and setting which we now all know off by heart yawn yawn.....

So what comeback did I have 10 month later (3000 mile) when my hub and bearings failed????? I'll tell you, NONE! Because you can't prove they weren't fitted incorrectly etc etc.

So what I'm saying is in my experience INA bearings are shite!!


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com App
 
#23 ·
That's the thing mate they could fail day you fit them just I fitted a sealed bearing 10k ago and needle one was from factory and lasted till now 18.5k so everyone is different jet washing near hub could cause it using degreasers near hub could do it u never now all I'm saying is I've fitted what the factory fitted and I've never had a prob
 
#30 ·
Thanks for the post MV-Woodster
As the 312 is a no go at the moment and prompted by your posting decided to service rear hub today , with the orginal hub spitting the dumby at around 12000km I opted then to installed the factory upgrade. Have to say with now 11000km on the new hub it looked fine ,like the day it went in so repacked bearings and reinstalled piece of cake and peace of mind . Usually hang rear of bike from strop in garage while doing rear end removal but used axle stands today as well for stability ,Thanks
 
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#40 · (Edited)
?

So far I have supplied over 500 3810-2RS bearings and precisely 2 needle bearings only one of which failed

Add to that the bearings that Charlie has sold.......
And there are zero reported failures

Seems kind of silly to use an INA bearing doesn't it ? Since all failed bearings are INAs

Or to replace the functional needle bearing

I remeasured the accuracy of my Athol vise clamped on a centered 3810-2RS......

The ends of the 4 1/2" jaws are 0.0005"/0.013mm off....
No hydraulic press is that square :jsm:

I've probably done 50 hubs

At Bubba IV I had a portable Park bearing press with machined adaptors to remove and install bearings........ nobody was interested in replacing bearings
In the shop I use a punch to remove the old bearing and the vise to install them......way faster

:drummer:
 
#41 ·
Just like to say thanks to Noel for sending me the 3810 bearing for my 1078rr. Really quick delivery as well. :)
I already have them fitted to our Brutale S and 910s, and have had no problems whatsoever. So much better than the crappy INA bearings that MV charge a fortune for. Highly recommended. :yo:

Dave.
 
#42 ·
Fully agree!
 
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