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Overheating issues with my F4 1000

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#1 · (Edited)
Bought the bike last year, and found right away the bike overheated in the summer heat. It got to 230 a few times while I was in traffic, and at some point a couple of times it shut down, forcing me to have to restart the thing in stand still traffic. I went back to the dealer and they indicated that there is a known overheating problem with the MV line. They then offered a solution, which was to replace the impeller, hoses, purchase the larger aluminum fans, and add the Water Wetter coolant. I did this at my local Ducati dealer, and they only thing it really did for me was to run cooler when I was moving, but it still runs hot while I am in slow traffic or at a light. I am still getting shut downs while in stand still traffic. Anyone have other issues that caused the bike to maintain its overheating? The only thing really that is left is the thermostat and the radiator, everything else is brand new.
 
#2 · (Edited)
I don't know if this is caused partly by design over function in that the designer wanted the bike to have that tight sleek look from the body work?

A well known issue, I have fitted a manual fan switch for when I am in the slow traffic area's as there is a lack of airflow through the fairing at reduced speed. There is a mod to seal the fans against the radiators and fit a 3rd fan unit. Also different fairing panels to allow in more air. Some riders wrap the down pipes of the exhausts to reduce the heat in the fairing radiator area, some riders worry this just makes more concentrated heat travel further along and cause other problems. I have had to redue my heat shields in the fairing and extend them as the fairing was suffering at the side panels and belly pan.

By the way welcome to the forum.
 
#3 ·
Obvious thing is to make sure there is no air in the system...Take your header filler cap off when the engine is cold and start her up . I tilted mine left to right about 45 degrees to help get any trapped air out. Don't let the engine boil. Let it get into mid 80's then shut off. I did this fir a week before each ride and that got the air out.

Is your bike puking a bit of coolant from time to time ?

Do a search on Fan switch as some members have fitted a manual switch to bring the fans on while on the move to keep the bike cooler..with good success I understand.

joe
 
#6 ·
there is a TINY bit of stain on the garage floor once or twice last year, but I have not seen it this year as the weather has been abnormally cold for Texas so have not had problems with overheating, Of course I moved late last year, so my traffic commute has lessened, so I don't sit in alot of stop and go traffic now.
 
#14 ·
My S did not have overheating problem ( I live is S.Florida) I used engine ice and no mods whatsoever , (stock fan plastic blades) , strangely, after 5 years my ebs relay went bad . When replaced with new ebs relay I noticed bike run more hot and on one occasion actually shown overheating symptoms. Sold the bike soon after that and so I have no idea what and or why it happened .
 
#21 ·
merc07, if you don't mind, how or who can reprogram the early CPU?

Sorry this question becomes my first post here, just bought a 339 mile '05 F4 1000 S last week, and getting to know the new machine. Will post pics in a new thread, though you've all seen rock-stock F4s before... :)

Thanks in advance!
 
#28 ·
merc07, if you don't mind, how or who can reprogram the early CPU?

Sorry this question becomes my first post here, just bought a 339 mile '05 F4 1000 S last week, and getting to know the new machine. Will post pics in a new thread, though you've all seen rock-stock F4s before... :)

Thanks in advance!
I can program the ecu to however you want, fuel, advance, ebs, idle, fan temps, rpm limits etc etc...

Get to know the bike for a while first and go from there.

The reason I did my 1000S is because it was basically unrideable. Yes the fueling can be helped by a PC but alot is to do with the advance, the ebs map and that horrible 'no blip' dead engine on downshifts in the lower rpms.

I have ridden a 1000R and although the 'no blip' is gone, it feels like a 750 until you get the thing going......

'So the only people that can reprogram the the new ECUs are MV and X-Bikes?'

I have someone working on the new ecu, it might come off, it might not, but it will take a while. X-Bikes doesn't reprogram the original ecu, he replaces it with a different type that is programmable and loads it with base maps that he has worked on from hours of dyno time.

'This is a bit new to me. I have a 2002 750, would it be possible to just change the programming in my current ECU to kick on the fan at a lower temp? '

That depends if your ecu is controlling the fans in the first place. On the early models this was done directly via a second temperature sensor. I'm not sure when they changed to the ecu switch but it should be easy enough to figure it out...

Cheers
Adam
 
#24 ·
New Ducati and MV owners have been bitching about engine overheating issues for years. There's nothing wrong with your bike. It's running exactly the way it was designed to run. The F4 is designed to run at high speeds. If you sit in traffic, it will overheat very quickly. Period. End of story.

There are numerous, "fixes," available, (bigger fans, fans switches, etc...), all of them designed to make your bike do something it wasn't designed to do, (namely, sit in traffic or at repeated red lights). But the real solution to your, "problem," is to use the machine for what it was intended for, (high speed biking), not trying to adapt the MV to a task it wasn't designed to perform.
 
#25 ·
New Ducati and MV owners have been bitching about engine overheating issues for years. There's nothing wrong with your bike. It's running exactly the way it was designed to run. The F4 is designed to run at high speeds. If you sit in traffic, it will overheat very quickly. Period. End of story.

There are numerous, "fixes," available, (bigger fans, fans switches, etc...), all of them designed to make your bike do something it wasn't designed to do, (namely, sit in traffic or at repeated red lights). But the real solution to your, "problem," is to use the machine for what it was intended for, (high speed biking), not trying to adapt the MV to a task it wasn't designed to perform.
This discussion has been done alot or the horse has been beat. The argument is that the bike designed to run on the track at high speeds so the bikes over heat in traffic.

Im going to call BS on this. My bike is a 1+1 and last time I checked the extra seat is for a passenger. When was the last time you saw passengers on the track? So now that begs the question - if MV designed the bike for track use why on earth would they make a 1+1 model? This bike was clearly designed to be run on public roads and on public roads you may encounter traffic or red octagons called stop signs and even occasionally come to a town where you might have to wait at a traffic light. And because the bike is fitted with equipment to make it suitable to ride on public roads then MV shouldve also made the appropriate changes to the rest of the mechanicals to make them suitable for public roads.

I still say MV screwed up the cooling on the bike. They did not do enough testing on the larger engine in heavy traffic situations. But thanks to the ingenuity of some awesome forum members, we MV owners can ride the bike how we want, when we want without worrying about overheating.
 
#29 ·
Bottom line is this bike doesn't like sitting in traffic. There are many mods people have done and most help somewhat. The best thing is to keep it moving. I have a high volume aftermarket radiator, metal fan blade, larger impeller on the water pump. I run engine ice and I sealed the fan mount against the radiator to make sure all of the air being pulled is going through the radiator and not being pulled around the outside of the mount. I investigating some small fans which will take the hot air from under the fairing once it goes through the radiator, but haven't had the time to work out the design. Since I'm only running one fan no need for a switch. with all that when I stop at a traffic light it will jump to 216-220 degrees andwhen I get moving again it drops quickly. If you want cooler go faster :)
 
#39 ·
Hi minime, Too be honest I frogot was only the other day but looking at buying 5 litres so my brother can do he's Tambo as well. Give Peter a call very interesting what he had to say and once the radiator is sorted will be interesting to see the difference.
 
#44 ·
I have a twin radiator 2000 F4750 and never had any overheating issues. In 30+ degrees C sitting in traffic the warmest it got was 101 then came back down again and wouldn't go above 98C.

Never had any cooling modifications.
 
#51 ·
I have a twin radiator 2000 F4750 and never had any overheating issues. In 30+ degrees C sitting in traffic the warmest it got was 101 then came back down again and wouldn't go above 98C.

Never had any cooling modifications.
Interesting why your fine and I wasn't, mine was very unhappy at 101C, someone suggested I may have had air in the cooling system, don't know, only had a problem in 30mph area's. My bike is modded incase the Sil Moto's and PCIII can make a difference?
Even if my bike wasn't running badly at high temps, I still don't like the idea of it running at 75C normally then getting cooked very quickly when in 30mph limits, ie what long term damage is been done to the bike? I took the fairing off once and a chunk of burnt fairing fell off, not because the heat shield in that area was missing, but because it never extended that far.
 
#50 ·
Catalyst fairings boys, Catalyst fairings......

http://www.catalystracingcomposites.com/
I think your right, above all else I suspect the real problem is really the standard fairings design/lack of airflow. Look at the changes in fairing design with the latest F4 and F3 models, not as pretty though imho. I wonder at what point MV really knew.
 
#46 · (Edited)
Overheating problem is a very boring problem for F4's especially warm places. I have a F4Y10-11 and when I'm thinking summer time more afraid this damn overheating problem. I have starting the overheating mod only for this problems. I'm thinking load Samco Hoses kit, Mv upgrade water pump and alu fan blades with Engine Ice. I hope i will not living any overheating problems at future. I really upset this problems and the other weird problems not befit Motorcycle Art!!! :banghead: :koolaid: :baddeal:
 
#49 · (Edited)
Have you had cooling problems with your bike ? Or are you anticipating a possible problem ?

Your bike has a much improved cooling system over the pre 2010 bikes including a proper oil cooler like the Brutale models. Your bike also has two radiator fans and a much denser cooling matrix than previous design.

I think ( don't know maybe someone can advise ) that the water pump is also much improved on the old design )

The MV designers have now looked at how aeroplanes engines are kept cool by massively increasing the outlet duct area for cooling air to escape after it has done it's job to maintain the " heat exchange temp gradient "

I haven't seen a Muzzy fan for the Y10 fans . Are they available ?

JOe

ps the photo below with the Y10+ rad and oil cooler, has two fans fitted to the radiator. The bottom unit is an oil cooler...note the closer packing of horizontal cooling rails.
I'm fitting this to my F4 1000R this spring...
 

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#48 ·
Noel I love that P51 and it is a lifetime ambition of mine to go to the Reno Air Races .. : ) ) )

I concur the MV cooling system could be improved on the earlier bikes both from a performance and strength point of view. I know that you and Donsy cracked it ( pun intended lol ).

The size of the air outlet where the air escapes after heat exchange : We used to work on 2 1/2 times the inlet size on model aircraft.

The Mustang has the advantage of massive ram air effect over the rads as it's forward speed is somewhat higher than the MV Agusta. and isn't cooling effect proportional to the square of the forward speed ( it's still early here lol )

thanks again for that fantastic pic of the P51 . The cockpit back to " razor back " style for aerodynamic purposes

joe
 
#52 ·
It looks like I might have a bit of research on my bike, a PM makes me think it might be possible that my fan isn't controlled by the ECU but a thermal switch. Might be able to get a different switch.

Temps haven't been bad, but its also been cool out. Yesterday I got caught in a jam from a wreck and spent 15 minutes at 5mph and the bike survived (hand was getting tired though). I just want to do some preventative measures. I hope the metal blades, sealing the fan to the radiator, the up-rated pump and a top knotch coolant should do the magic.
 
#62 · (Edited)
It looks like I might have a bit of research on my bike, a PM makes me think it might be possible that my fan isn't controlled by the ECU but a thermal switch. Might be able to get a different switch.

It maybe that the fan output for the 750S ecu is internally wired up to work with the water temp sensor the same way the 1000S works.

I just had another look at the fan control software for the 750S and it is exactly the same as on the 1000S...it is also called at the same time within the routine.

Fan_Control:
ldaa byte_244
brset byte_61 $20 loc_8F6F ; ' '
cmpa Fan_On_Temp (97)
bls locret_8F7E
bset byte_61 $A0 ; 'á'
bra loc_8F77
cmpa Fan_Off_Temp (92)
bhi locret_8F7E
bclr byte_61 $20 ; ' '

psha
ldaa byte_61
staa loc_7FF+1
pula
rts
; End of function Fan_Control

You have the same temp sensors that the 1000S has + the extra one at the rad.

All you need to do is test pin 20 on the ecu (you can access this from the connector side) and see if it is +v and then goes -ve somewhere around the time that the fans kick in.

I say somewhere because if it is wired up, it will use the water temp sensor for the cpu (item 20) and not the fan thermal switch (item 32) that the fans use at the moment.

ECU pin 20 may even have an external wire connected to it already.

It would be interesting to find out even if you don't use it...

Cheers
Adam
 
#55 ·
Danny,

MV Agusta have addressed the cooling issue.Its the 2010 F4 cooling system. The fact is that customer owners are part of the research and development team for product improvement.

Whether or not you agree with the hub upgrades this also applies to the change in hub design in 2010 models.

That's how I see it with MV Agusta ownership..

joe
 
#56 ·
I see your point Joe, my gripe was to the comment that the F4 was made exclusively as a track bike and not for the road and therefore expecting it to not overheat is unreasonable!
I understand the need for constant development and that's why all manufactures update and improve their bikes over time ( although surely an overheating problem should have been discovered and addressed before launching the bike)
 
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