MV Agusta Forum banner

Reverse shift drum installed! 2010 F4

12K views 53 replies 22 participants last post by  SpainF4 
#1 ·
Hey guys, anyone interested? I just completed the installation of a reverse shift drum on my 2010 F4 at 600 miles. I can answer questions if you have any.
 
#4 ·
Reverse Shift Drum

:)
I cant see the use of reverse!! He He He!!!

Do you mean 1 up and 5 down???

Well actually, Gazman, I refered to the optional shift-drum as a "Reverse shift drum" for anyone wanting to order it.

Thats what it is.

You are correct. It changes the shift pattern to 1 up-5 down, the main advantage being that "up-shifts" can be easily be accomplished while still at near full lean angle, exiting a corner, without getting your foot caught under the shifter, as with a "standard street pattern", where you have to wait until you can "pick-up" the bike alot more before up-shifting, spoiling your drive off the corner, and all the way down the next straightaway.

Also commonly refered to as "G.P. shift pattern" or "Race Shift Pattern", The part is available from the factory, or thru Ferracci for about $225.00

Also with the Shift-Drum it will be required to change the Gear Selector Sensor on the left side of the bike, to the compatable "race-version" shift drum, so that the electronics can properly read what gear your actually in. (dashboard indicator, and traction control performance).
The Sensor is about $70.00.

It's a fairly easy installation, a shop manuel is invaluable, and i got bye with re-useing the counter-shaft "tab-washer" and clutch case paper gasket, but its better to replace them.
 
#8 ·
hi Mr. Master
so where can i order this and can i install or i haveto ask shop person to install?
please let me know where i can order
thank you
 
#9 ·
Shift drum Installation



You can go to your local MV dealer and they can get the parts for you. Shift drum, New Sensor, counter shaft tab washer, clutch case gasket, oil filter, and new drive chain masterlink.

Installation depends on your mechanical abilities, available tools, and a factory shop manual, which i feel every one should have, if your going to be working on your own bike. Its very well detailed and has all the torque spec's for every nut and bolt, which i feel is invaluable.

i actually preformed the installation without the shop manual, and I wouldnt reccomend this because quite alot of the parts need to be removed and re-installed properly to the right torque values, I wasted alot of time without the manual.

It just wasnt availabe to me in time, and i didnt want to wait.

To give you an idea of some of the procedures required:

Drain-Oil
Remove Counter Shaft nut (big air impact driver)
Break Drive Chain
Drain Radiator
Remove Exhaust Manifolds
remove Clutch Slave Cylinder
remove L/H cases and Water-Pump case and hoses
remove gear selector cases
remove clutch case cover
remove Clutch basket (clutch-hub holder and air impact driver)
remove oil pump gear
and then you can finally remove the Cassette-type gear box and access the stock shift drum.

this is just a basic over-view to help you decide if you want to tackle the job your self or go straight to you local AUTHORIZED DEALER for a Quote.

Personally, I wasnt comfortable with the street patten shifting as iv'e been roadracing since 1983 on alot of G.p. two strokes and Superbikes that all had a reversed shift pattern. so i just couldn't keep my head wrapped around doing what needs to be instinctive, shifting with-out have to concentrate on the pattern i wasnt used to.

the only other benifit comes on the Race Track.
 
#13 ·
Shift Drum Installation



for sure thats an option, theirs alot of linkage-type rear sets available out there. but "sometimes" the added linkage can bind-up, or come loose, and cause shifting difficulty if not properly adjusted, but ive had a dozen bikes with a shift linkage and it sure is alot easier than pulling out the gear box!

an added benifit to running a linkage is that alot of the Quick-shifters available use a linear sensor, which is compatible with the added shift rod.

I plan on installing the SP Electonics CGS Quick-Shifter from Evolution Bike, for my F4. it just uses a "toe-sensor".
 
#11 ·
Hey M&M
Nice write up on this- much appreciated. I purchased one of these a while ago and haven't installed it yet partly because of the work involved, but I understand your feeling on it's benefits for the track and think it also pretty damn cool too.

After reading your review I may just wait a bit longer until I'm ready to do something with the clutch assembly, since it sounds as though that's in the way anyhow.

By the way I have the earlier 2005 model F4-1000S do you know of any major differences in the proceedure from what you heard or seen?
 
#12 ·
Yes, MV1, its quite abit of work but, i love working on this bike! its much like a true racebike with nicely machined pieces and a cassette-type gear box. a real pleasure.
Im not familar with the all the differences on your model year, but the basic procedure will be the same, and yes, the clutch basket will be removed, so you can plan your install with an Oil Service Change, and whatever you have planned for your clutch.
 
#15 ·
Huh

does anyone know if it will be possible to change the f3 to gp shift? From the picture it does not look like it as the shift bar appears to go through the frame.
Look around mate, many bikes run link's through the frames, there will alway's be a way of doing it. By the time the F3 thing hit's the shop's, all the bit's will be sorted, I would not loose sleep over it for at least another 18 mnth's.
 
#17 ·
if you've been riding GP pattern since '83, i don't blame you i'd change too

like Donsy said, why the exhausts and the oil pump gear too? i just put a CR box in and didn't touch the pipes or oil pump

:f4:
 
#18 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I elected to pull-off the oil pan to see if there was any metal shavings, since the bike is new, I wanted to make sure and clean everything out real well, and actually, all shavings had collected on the drain magnet. I love to play it safe when i work on $20,000 bikes.
So. now you know why I pulled the exhaust manifolds.

Noel, as I remember, the oil pump gear needed to be removed to pull out the gearbox from the other side.
as I mentioned in my post, i was working carefully, but without a proper shop manual at the time, so forgive me if i caused anyone to prematurely reach for their snap ring pliers.

I hope im a better rider than I am a Mechanic, I did manage to race a RS 250 G.P. bike Up-front, for an entire season, without a single D.N.F. Complete tear-downs after every race, between session piston inspections, carefull tuneing. But lets face it, the 2-strokes are alot simpler to work on. Lots more pieces on the Diesel.

Im the first to admit, I dont know everything.
 
#19 ·
Rude Mate

Hey guys, I elected to pull-off the oil pan to see if there was any metal shavings, since the bike is new, I wanted to make sure and clean everything out real well, and actually, all shavings had collected on the drain magnet. I love to play it safe when i work on $20,000 bikes.
So. now you know why I pulled the exhaust manifolds.
I just wanted to know if there was such a big differance between old and new models, no need to get you nickers in a knot, you were the one giving advice to start with.:stickpoke

Noel, as I remember, the oil pump gear needed to be removed to pull out the gearbox from the other side.
as I mentioned in my post, i was working carefully, but without a proper shop manual at the time, so forgive me if i caused anyone to prematurely reach for their snap ring pliers.


By the way, I'll be taking a Crap at about 7 am eastern time, if I need any advise on the best way to wipe, I'll let you know.
WTF:eek:nthecan:
 
#25 ·
Hhhmm

Dear Donsy (or anyone), can you please provide me with an example of a bike that runs the shift rod through the frame, that can be converted to gp shift? I would like to look further into that bike.

thanks in advance
Why so serious ? It's not a hard thing to do ? HAve you got a F3 already ?
 
#32 ·
Uhmm

Walt415;
the only bikes that MIGHT have shift shafts going through the frame are converted right hand shift bikes <'70.....

:)
I think what he means Noel is that some R1's and some CBR as well as GSXR's have the gearbox selector shaft sitting high up on the motor and then they run the linkage through the frame side-plate to the bottom near the pegs, there are quite a fiew bikes like that ATM.
 
#35 ·
thanks Donsy and the rest of you, the only Jap 4's i've played with were drag bikes.....i got an empty motor and built the frame and pipes and they all had air shifters that somebody else installed

:f4:
 
#36 ·
haga on r1



hey guys, this is an example of haga on an R1 that used to have the shift bar running through the frame, right? I used to have a 99 R1, which had the same set up, but I did not know what gp shift was back then. crashed it in a nasty highside, I'm afraid. would the aftermarket rearset that someone mentioned look pretty much like this?
 
#37 ·
For those that think you can run a linkage style shifter to easily swap to GP shift on the 2010 F4 I am going to have to deliver the bad news.

I just tried with my Rizoma rearsets. Due to the geometry of the fairings below the shift rod, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that you would be able to make it work, regardless of brand.

In order for the arm to properly line up with the shifter, you would have to cut a section out of your lower, and probably upper, fairing for clearance.
 
#38 ·
-10

For those that think you can run a linkage style shifter to easily swap to GP shift on the 2010 F4 I am going to have to deliver the bad news.

I just tried with my Rizoma rearsets. Due to the geometry of the fairings below the shift rod, it is EXTREMELY unlikely that you would be able to make it work, regardless of brand.

In order for the arm to properly line up with the shifter, you would have to cut a section out of your lower, and probably upper, fairing for clearance.
And I am sorry to have to tell you this, but you are wrong. I asked the question for another guy on the forum, the manufacturer laughed at me and said it was easier to make for the 2010 model as there was more room than on the older model.
Every manufacturer uses different brackets, therefore I would not make the call too quick.
 
#40 ·
Options James

I am soo happy to be wrong on this. Which manufacturer has the capability? Rizoma doesn't seem to have the parts for it.
First you have to decide - Bling, or Performance.
I love the Rizoma look, like the top Corse gear, but if you use GP shift, look for the racing orientated mobs.
Speak to the site sponsors mate !!
 
#43 ·
I happened to put a set of Satos on my bike. It was an easy thing to do to switch them to GP. The only work involved was counterboring the arm on the trans so it would go in farther as it hit the fairing when flopped 180 degrees. Alot easier than the drum bit. And it could be put back to standard in a flash.
 
#44 ·
For my '08 312R I was going to go the reverse shit drum route but at the last minute decided to order PP Tuning reverse shift rearsets - I wanted grippier pegs anyway. I believe Donsy uses the PPs and reports no problem with the linkage hitting anything. I shoud get them this week and will report back on the install/functionality.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top