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The diameter of the Wheel for the Pickup

2K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  X81 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello,

My name is Dirk, I am from Germany and I want to implant a Weber ECU in my 43 year old Volvo. The original 1970 BOSCH fuel injection is very sensitive, and some parts are sold out.
So I decided to implant the Weber ECU.
My plan is to insert the wheel and the pickup in the original distributor housing. But running the distributor half revolutions of the crankshaft.
So I need an own wheel with twice the number of teeth and two large rooms for the timing.
My questions are: What is the diameter of the original crankshaft timing wheel
And: Can someone tell me what is the smallest possible space between the teeth, which is still recognized by the pickup?

Thanks for your help,

Dirk

PS: Please excuse my bad english
 
#3 ·
He is talking about the crank sensor wheel.

This is what he is asking:

My hope is, that the MV wheel fits into the original BOSCH distributor.
But this parts runs only half rotation of the crankshaft.

My three questions are:

1: What is the diameter of the wheel and how many teeth are on it?

2: Can I build a wheel that has the double number of ( smaller) teeth with two spaces for and the sensor detects it,

3. and if it is not, can anybody change the program and reduce the number of teeth to the half. If it is so, I can build a wheel with two spaces for upper deadpoint and the teeth have the original wideness.
 
#4 ·
I'm gonna defer to the Knurl here...or someone else much more savvy than I am....I've never really looked at a 1970 Bosch injection system.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Hello,
sorry for my bad words. Some of them gave me Google.
The BOSCH Injection doesnt matter, only the Intakehousing and the Throttle will stay there.
The Distributor is an old standard piece with an inner rotorarm and a dirtibutor cap and ignition cable.
I haven't measured it yet, but i think, it nearby 70mm. I will remove the cables and the rotorarm to fit the Wheel and the Sensor.

Dirk
 
#6 ·
Maybe CAG has a "phonic" wheel lying about he could put calipers to for you. You just need to know the OD ??
 
#7 · (Edited)
Hello esq'z me,

First I need to know what is the minimum distance between the teeth, which is recognized by the pickup. And I need to know the number of teeth I need for a new Wheel.
The outer diameter is not so important. First I want to focus on the distributor.
For the distributor I have to build my own wheel.
But when I put the wheel on the crankshaft, I can use the original wheel.

This is the Volvo:





 
#8 ·
Nice car...always liked those Volvo P1800's.

Here are some PDF files I took from the service and parts manuals showing the wheel. Maybe this will help? I'm just not prepared to pull an engine cover off at this time.
 

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#9 ·
Hello esq'z me,
Thank you for the pictures.
I have a lot of time, I want to realize it till the end of next year. So I hope, the next months somebody can measure the wheel
On the photo in the pdf #1 I can see the pickup, and I think, that I can realize a wheel with smaller teeth, because the distributor runs half rotation and the center of the pickup is very small.
I think the only way to find out is to try it.
Now, it's interesting what is the wheel diameter
Then I can draw a wheel and compare the spaces and the width of the teeth.
 
#10 ·
WeberMarelli ecu?

SecondVolvoman;
the WeberMarelli ECU is old and VERY primitive even by motorcycle standards
it doesn't;
reference MAP
have an 02 sensor
an IAC stepper motor for idle speed

look into the MegaSquirt/MicroSquirt ECUs they are open source stuff

the old Bosch on the P-1800 is far more advanced than the WeberMarelli on the MVs
 
#11 · (Edited)
#12 ·
Hello Randarosa,
Irv Gordon has a Volvo with Carbs.
And many people are wondering, that Irv could drive 7 Days a week in 46 Years 180 miles Day by day. Every Day till today...
The BOSCH D-Jetronic is a very sensitive analog-electronic injection without maps.
Many parts are wear parts. 20 years ago, offered for 10 EURO, today for 230 EURO and many other parts also.

@theknurl: Megasquirt is a very difficult part, hard to handle in the preparation.
I have read many sites about it.
The Weber Marelli ist the simpliest thing to implant in old cars. And with a simple lambda you can modify the Eprom. Don't forget it's an old car and i'm afraid, that it runs perfectly with a Weber ECU.

Dirk
 
#13 ·
@theknurl: Megasquirt is a very difficult part, hard to handle in the preparation.
I have read many sites about it.
The Weber Marelli is the simplest thing to implant in old cars. And with a simple lambda you can modify the Eprom. Don't forget it's an old car and i'm afraid, that it runs perfectly with a Weber ECU.

Dirk
Mega Squirt can come plug and play;
http://www.diyautotune.com/

now which Weber ECU are you talking about?

the 1.6M has an EPROM and no lambda sensor
the 5 SM doesn't have an EPROM and does use a lambda sensor(stock, the "Kit" ECU does not)

the Phonic wheel is 72.0mm in diameter
the gaps are 4.3mm
the teeth are 5.0mm wide

personal advice;
leave your ignition alone.....unless you think you can write an ignition map that will get good mileage without sensing MAP
since Weber can't.....i doubt you can
you want electronic ignition? get a 4 cylinder GM HEI and recurve it as necessary......yes, you will have (most likely) the drive end

then you won't need the Phonic wheel because you can use the standard Tach signal.....

then you need programmable EFI

my friend Bob makes bulletproof ones, they come complete less injectors
harness and all
1-16 injectors, 0-3 Bar boost and nitrous

programmed in DOS.....you answer ~15 questions it writes a basic map for you
the ~11 sub maps are already installed.....
fuel as a % of injector flow, not time
drag and drop fuel curves
secondary acceleration squirt with temp compensation

and he used to supply the software on a scraped IBM ThinkPad too

PS;
the 1.6M EPROMs are programmed backwards from line 8,000, just to confuse you

i think you are very foolish to try to use the Weber, it took Chris X81, 6 months to find the harness plug......they are antiques

my 910R Brutale doesn't have a Weber ECU on it and neither will my F4

:naughty::naughty::naughty:
 
#14 ·
Dirk, call me on +44 (0) 1945 585533


I would not go down the std MV ECU route as you are limited in what you can do, you need a universal fitment and then set that up. Hard work but more flexibility.

Is the car running now becuase you will need to gather some data from it and start working out fuel requirements for start up etc, you'll need coupling angles once you set the trigger wheel setting which on ECU's i use can be changed so you are not dictated to by wheel size.

Also there are universal trigger wheel suppliers out there, recently fitted one to an R7 that went from 6 teeth (std) to 36-1 for the Microtec ECU upgrade.

Beautiful car and running a decent injection system will be a pleasure to drive but you've got bigger potential issues ahead of you than the choice of trigger wheel.

Like i said give me a call and i'll do my best to help. :)
 
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