Headlight dim and bright upgrade - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-14-2016, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Headlight dim and bright upgrade

Since I know you're all looking to sort the dim and bright light switching problem.
I saw this on Ed Coskers page on Facebook.

"MV TURISMO ESSENTIAL UPGRADE
This part will enable you to keep full beam and dip beam on simultaneously. Thus improving night time vision 😀🏁🇮🇹 £20 delivered
Phone 01885410390 NOW!!
limited stock and we expect every Turismo owner to want one"

https://www.facebook.com/superbikesales/?fref=photo

If it's that simple, get one and show me the wire colours and pin shape, and I can make em up and share around for price of plugs and shipping.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-14-2016, 01:33 PM
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We'll see Dons, I'll be at his showroom the day after tomorrow. As it's me who alerted him to the fact that the factory had them in stock and he knows I want one I hope that he's put one aside for me. I was told they'll likely be in this week when discussing work being done this Thursday on the phone last week.

Will get the multimeter out, had assumed that a diode of some sort would be needed to prevent both being on when dipped but then I know feck all about LED lighting systems... Certainly looks like just wires from the picture.

Chas
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 05:56 AM
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I've ordered one, should arrive tomorrow. I thought £20 posted was reasonable.

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 07:07 PM
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Is this an official product from MV or will it void warranty?

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-15-2016, 07:22 PM
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per Ed it is an official MV part.


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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 01:24 AM
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When buying my TV from Ed he admitted that the headlight wasn't great but he and other dealers had been in discussion with the factory about a solution that would bring both low and high beams on at once. This is that solution.

He did also admit that the factory would take its time, or the fix might even never see the light of day. I really appreciate his honesty on this and other issues, glad he's my local dealer. Anyway, made my own enquiry with the factory recently via their online enquiry form. Was surprised to even get a response let alone a positive one stating that the part was now available. Looks like the dealer bulletin on this never happened Let Ed know and he ordered some.

So yes, it's an official MV Augusta part. Not sure of warranty implications of a DIY version though. If the same as the official plug in and play one, removal, in the case of an issue, is an option. Obviously if the adapter caused a short by being incorrectly wired you'd be 'up the creek without a paddle'.

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 03:35 AM
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Great! Do you have by any chance the part number so I can order one as well?

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MASantos View Post
Great! Do you have by any chance the part number so I can order one as well?
Post #26 in this thread.

Chas
MY16 Turismo Veloce Lusso
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-16-2016, 05:07 PM
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Back from a long afternoon at Ed's. Jamie, his tech, and Sam spent all afternoon sorting warranty issues on my Turismo (indicators x2 and crap alarm removal), discovered that the other front indicator is also on the way out, 2 LEDs remain working out of 6, next warranty claim in the pipe-line. Additionally they fitted the new headlight adapter. This was a first time job for them, so something of a voyage of discovery as there were no instructions provided and this obviously isn't in the workshop manual.







Initial thoughts were that it was located on the back of the headlight so the dash came out (word of warning here, don't unplug dash without a qualified MV tech with a laptop, lead and the proper software as errors can result if you cycle the ignition). The connector on the back of the headlight didn't match.

Next found connector forward of the reg/rec under the left forward panel. Oddly one side of this matched the new adapter but the other didn't... Disconnecting this connector did disable the headlight so in the right ball park.

Next tank came off along with right side panel. No suitable connector found.

Removal of the nose cone was the next line of attack. The pile of parts on the bench was now getting pretty large with Jamie fastidiously organising tubs for fasteners for the various stages/areas.



Finally it was discovered that the first suspect (connector forward of reg/rec on left of bike) was, in fact, what he was looking for. This already has an in-line adapter looking very much like the new one in place. the ends don't match male to female explaining why only one side fitted on the first try. The second connector is not visible without removing the nose cone.


existing adpater





There seems to be something in the black tape other than wiring, possibly a component (diode?), it's vital not to bend this area, rather the wires between it at the male socket.

Both fairing side panels need to be removed, the inner panels with the small storage spaces, two screws on the inner face of the very top of the fairing, there maybe another under the small metal plates on either side as well (sorry missed that bit of the job). There's another screw under front of the nose cone as well I think, Jamie did mention it. Basically, proceed with caution, don't force anything and if it's not moving assume that there's another screw that needs to come out. Sorry that my description isn't comprehensive but at least you know where to look if you've ordered one of these by mail.

Now to test at night... will post on this shortly.

Coskers have already sold quite a few of these so their initial stock is dwindling, get your skates on and call them if you want one. I understand, hopefully accurately, from the the post on this matter and replies to enquiries on their FB page that they will ship abroad if you're having trouble getting one in your country.

Sorry Dons, was getting in the way enough in the workshop to get the multimeter onto the adapter, looks a little more than just wires but not by much. Not too bad value at £20 for the factory part IMHO. maybe one of those ordering via mail will be good enough to test one for you.

Jamie and Sam stayed on after closing just to get my bike sorted, even asked me to take a test ride to make sure everything was OK before packing up, so kudos to them for this effort, much appreciated. Demonstrated that the staff there are willing to go the extra mile. Sam has even offered to come and fit the left front hand-guard if it comes in before my Spanish trip. He lives not to far from my place

Chas
MY16 Turismo Veloce Lusso

Last edited by Bumpkin; 06-16-2016 at 06:24 PM. Reason: typo correction
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 06-20-2016, 06:06 AM
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Had to remove my nose-cone over the weekend so now have hands-on experience of this task as opposed to being a bystander whilst others do the work. Watching Jamie and Sam, at Ed Coskers, do it gave me some insight which helped greatly.

The main parts that you will need to remove are, in order:

1/ left and right fairing infills (the ones with the small stowage pockets) - in each; four 4mm done head Allen bolts, rear one through fairing into well nut in infill. Beware the inner one to the front, one slip and it'll fall into the channel right next to it and disappear. Access is tight so this is a distinct possibility. Extracting one from in there is hard, don't ask me why... Only consolation is that Sam did exactly the same thing last week. Once the four small bolts are out slide the edge of the infill inwards and forwards to disengage it from the fairing and the infill to the front side of the tank. Repeat on other side of the bike.

2/ left and right fairing outer side panels - removed the row of three 4mm dome head Allen bolts from the side of the fairing. The front one is difficult to access unless you have a very long Allen key or a screw driver type tool with the correct bit (I have one of the latter, Aldi special, perfect for this job). There is another 4mm bolt accessed from underneath toward the front between the fairing outer side panel and the radiator cover/inner side panel (B). The outer side panels are, once you've removed the above, retained by two rubber grommets that engage with pegs. One at the rear top attaching to the side of the fuel tank, the other at the bottom beside the bottom of the radiator. Be especially careful removing the panel on the right hand side, the Bluetooth module is mounted on the inner face and will need to be unplugged to allow complete removal. There is enough cable slack to allow for this but not much..

3/ nose-cone - remove the two screws from the black plastic part to the lower front of the nose-cone that attach to the top of the radiator cover/inner side panel (E). Inside the fairing, either side of the dash there is an Allen bolt going though the cast bracket that the dash is mounted to, these need to be removed taking great care not to slip and scratch the display (D). Remove the 4mm Allen bolts from inside the very top of the nose cone (C). There are cables connected to the nose-cone assembly, these run under the black plastic inner mid panel (16), on the left side, to their respective components (air temp sensor and, on the Lusso, the GPS antenna). The connectors for these are small but fairly easy to undo, they are under the left infill piece with the pocket. Finally remove the Allen bolt that's directly under the headlight (A), you'll need to get down low to see this, it's right underneath. I found it best, at this stage, to raise the screen to its highest position. Now, standing in front of the bike, straddling the front wheel, ease the upper sides of the nose-cone around the screen and its surround whilst pulling the whole assembly towards you and off the bike.



Assembly is reverse of the above.

With the exception of the Allen bolt under the headlight (A) and unplugging cables everything above needs to carried out on both sides of the bike, i.e. it's symmetrical. I've described, and annotated in the schematic, one side only.

I found that quite a few of the 4mm bolts that tightened onto the fairing were missing the little nylon washers that help protect the paintwork. I bought some off eBay, marginally thicker and slightly bigger outside diameter but they work well.

I also found that the 4mm bolts that screwed into rubber well-nuts were the longer of the two, the shorter ones screwed into threaded clips. Makes perfect sense but consider this on reassembly so that all fasteners have enough thread available to do up. Be very careful to get this right, using the shorter ones, on the screws at (E), both sides, 4 in all, accidentally use the long ones for these and you'll probably scratch your fork legs when the bars are turned.

The screws into well-nuts do a good job of holding themselves, don't over tighten these. The others don't need to be too tight but you can feel these, into threaded clips, 'nip up' easier.
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Chas
MY16 Turismo Veloce Lusso

Last edited by Bumpkin; 06-20-2016 at 11:05 AM.
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