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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Race Hooks

Just installed a set of race hooks to fill in the space left when I removed the pillion pegs. A nice product with high quality. Purchased from Design Corse. They were advertised for the F3, but the package was labeled F4 '10 - and I had to make some minor mods to make them fit. First the rear spacer had to be removed (17mm wrench, easy). The two long rear cap screws supplied with the hooks had to be shortened to match the front screws. It will be much easier to tie the bike down in the trailer with these hooks. Much less risk of damage to the bodywork as well.
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 11:17 PM
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Looks good! Can you tie the bike down for transport with those alone, or do you still have to secure the handlebars?

What we've got here, is failure to communicate.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Looks good! Can you tie the bike down for transport with those alone, or do you still have to secure the handlebars?
Still laughing at the Titanic comment better get a parachute, the fiscal cliff is just ahead!

Back to your question - I NEVER tie the handlebars down - too hard on fork seals. In my enclosed trailer the front wheel is in a race chock (Harbor Freight, $70) that is bolted to the trailer floor so the front suspension is free to move naturally. The race hooks will just allow me to provide some lateral and vertical stability with tie downs. Truth be known, the race chock is enough all by itself for most trips but the straps need to be there for rough roads, emergencies, etc.

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 04:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idahomike View Post
Just installed a set of race hooks to fill in the space left when I removed the pillion pegs. A nice product with high quality. Purchased from Design Corse. They were advertised for the F3, but the package was labeled F4 '10 - and I had to make some minor mods to make them fit. First the rear spacer had to be removed (17mm wrench, easy). The two long rear cap screws supplied with the hooks had to be shortened to match the front screws. It will be much easier to tie the bike down in the trailer with these hooks. Much less risk of damage to the bodywork as well.
Great to hear you got them and fitted them, These Racing hooks are not specific for the F3 bikes from Sato. you simply need to remove the spacer from the rear which pull off easily with a set of pliers.

The Bolts that come with the hooks fit perfectly but if you want to shorten them then either you can use the original rear-peg bolts or simply swap out the rear-set bolts with the sato ones.

Regards

Al


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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesignCorse View Post
Great to hear you got them and fitted them, These Racing hooks are not specific for the F3 bikes from Sato. you simply need to remove the spacer from the rear which pull off easily with a set of pliers.

The Bolts that come with the hooks fit perfectly but if you want to shorten them then either you can use the original rear-peg bolts or simply swap out the rear-set bolts with the sato ones.
Hmmmm.....I thought that's what I just said.....except use the 17 mm open-end instead of pliers, ok?

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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idahomike View Post
Hmmmm.....I thought that's what I just said.....except use the 17 mm open-end instead of pliers, ok?
Indeed you are right which ever tools you have available and i was just adding that you can swap over the Bolts from the rearsets onto the hooks and vice versa.

Regards

Al


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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DesignCorse View Post
Indeed you are right which ever tools you have available and i was just adding that you can swap over the Bolts from the rearsets onto the hooks and vice versa.
I kept the Sato bolts because they look better than the stock ones, are probably less corrosion-prone than the stock ones and - the clincher - the original peg bolts were already packed away with the pegs. Engine covers are next!!

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idahomike View Post
I kept the Sato bolts because they look better than the stock ones, are probably less corrosion-prone than the stock ones and - the clincher - the original peg bolts were already packed away with the pegs. Engine covers are next!!
Ahh got it Mike, No worries and in regards to the engine covers we do have the GB racing in stock

Regards

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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DesignCorse View Post
Ahh got it Mike, No worries and in regards to the engine covers we do have the GB racing in stock
I noticed

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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-07-2012, 10:21 AM
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I noticed
Indeed
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