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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
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Question Dashboard Failure

Ok we are talking about a F4 2005 1000s.

Recently I had the bike serviced at Trooper Lu's (very happy with both bike & personal service) and after about 100klms of getting the bike back the fuse popped turning off my dash and tacho - the bike runs perfect.

We had all sorts of trouble with the blinker connections on the touch pads & blinkers not working, so we converted it over to hard wire with pull out connectors - blinkers now work perfect.

Initially I thought this may have had something to do with it - except the blinker fuse doesn't blow & the blinkers work even when the dash fuse (7.5 amp) blows - interestingly, with the display out, the blinker display still shows up on the dash when the fuse is blown, so you know your blinker is on.

Anyhow, the fuse appeared to blow randomly - not when the blinkers are operated not when anything else is touched - just sometime during the ride it blows.

Today in effort to narrow the problem, I put in a new fuse & took the bike for a ride, I did about 18 klms & it blew. I rode back home disassembled fairing nose cone, took off the fuel tank, I can't see a pinched wire anywhere.

I put everything back together and when on another ride - I got some 8 klms from home & the fuse popped - I changed it there & then & it blew right away.

I rode back home & put in another one & it within 10 seconds of installing it blew just with the ignition on.

I let the bike cool down & the fuse holds fine.

Obviously the fuse only blows when the bike gets hot Has anyone come across this before? It's driving me nuts!

Thanks Guys.


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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 03:06 AM
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Check your parking light connection. The wire/cable could be shorting out on the exhaust if you are not using the original number plate mudguard thingy.

To prove its not the parking light, disconnected all together from the plug and put in a new fuse.

Slow is smooth and smooth is fast!!
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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minime View Post
Check your parking light connection. The wire/cable could be shorting out on the exhaust if you are not using the original number plate mudguard thingy.

To prove its not the parking light, disconnected all together from the plug and put in a new fuse.

Yes that was something I should haver included above, I checked that today when I pulled everything apart - I checked everything that runs off that fuse, park/stop light - number plate light. I have a carbon version of the OEM tail piece.

We I saw the number plate light out - I thought YEAH...but alas that was unrelated blown bulb.


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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 05:41 AM
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You could try a method that I witnessed a car dealership mechanic doing.Remove the fuse from the fuse holder,install a thick piece of wire,and "look for the smoke".
Personally,I don't recommend this method.
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 06:01 AM
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spose if you pulled all the bulbs on that circuit, disconnected dash and the wires to stop switches and it still went when hot must be wiring...
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Question Might Be Onto Something Here

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Originally Posted by EmVee View Post
You could try a method that I witnessed a car dealership mechanic doing.Remove the fuse from the fuse holder,install a thick piece of wire,and "look for the smoke".
Personally,I don't recommend this method.
Yes I have heard of this & I am with you - what I would call the port of last resort, I have a lot more patience to exasperate before going there - the classic MVs are a good training ground when it comes to developing patience I've had years of it

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Originally Posted by Totale View Post
spose if you pulled all the bulbs on that circuit, disconnected dash and the wires to stop switches and it still went when hot must be wiring...
Yep, even uninstalled the Acumen gear indicator in case it was malfunctioning. Same thing, but when Dave (The_castle) was riding it some 10 days ago, the fuse blew quite quickly (within a kilometre of home) before it would have been properly hot - hmmm that's an anomaly in the pattern, also he was doubling his wife at the time, I wonder if that's significant? The more weight that was on it , the quicker it blows????

Crap I am working tomorrow, further experimenting will need to wait until Thursday


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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 08:07 AM
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It sounds like a short somewhere, Rob. It is a bit of a pain, because you'll have to remove the tank and airbox, but check the wire loom where it runs across the engine. It is suspended by two little clamps. If those clamps break, bend or deform them selves the wire harness rests directly on the coolant tube bridging cylinders two and three. A little heat, a little vibration and voila, the insulation gets rubbed through and you short out against the engine.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVista View Post
Ok we are talking about a F4 2005 1000s.

...
I let the bike cool down & the fuse holds fine.

Obviously the fuse only blows when the bike gets hot Has anyone come across this before? It's driving me nuts!

Thanks Guys.
I had a problem like this after a tech left wiring touching the cylinder head (right side of bike, front cylinder). Fuse after fuse when the bike was hot. Finally saw the bound wires touching the cylinder head and tied it to the frame. No more blown fuses.


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Last edited by sfarson; 01-17-2012 at 10:16 AM.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 11:15 AM
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I though for a while there that this particular F4 just didn't like Kiwis. But it seems that's not the case.
Some good points above. I hope they direct you to the problem Rob, you're far too young to be grey.

It ain't what you ride, it's the way you ride it.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Solutions - Food for Thought

Quote:
Originally Posted by CAG View Post
It sounds like a short somewhere, Rob. It is a bit of a pain, because you'll have to remove the tank and airbox, but check the wire loom where it runs across the engine. It is suspended by two little clamps. If those clamps break, bend or deform them selves the wire harness rests directly on the coolant tube bridging cylinders two and three. A little heat, a little vibration and voila, the insulation gets rubbed through and you short out against the engine.
Thanks CAG, although you would think if that was the problem, it would not be intermittent - it should be constant like the problem you recently had with the wiring loom (great pics btw certainly helped paint a clear picture). Still I am off work tomorrow, so we may as well cover all bases.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sfarson View Post
I had a problem like this after a tech left wiring touching the cylinder head (right side of bike, front cylinder). Fuse after fuse when the bike was hot. Finally saw the bound wires touching the cylinder head and tied it to the frame. No more blown fuses.
Thanks sfarson, the injectors were done, so I checked all the wiring there and no problem - I guess I can cover this when I do what CAG suggests above. You know i can't help thinking about the fuse popping quicker when Dave rode two up with his wife - the suspension compressing is a clue I am sure of that - one thing is for sure we will know sooner or later

Quote:
Originally Posted by The_castle View Post
I though for a while there that this particular F4 just didn't like Kiwis. But it seems that's not the case.
Some good points above. I hope they direct you to the problem Rob, you're far too young to be grey.
No it liked you just fine Dave not so sure about the GTLS though We will get to the bottom & I am aiming to do it tomorrow!

Grey? That's a sign of worry which is not me, I may rant & rave like a lunatic (or an Italian) but once that's over it down to business without any worries, the secret of staying young You are right I am way too young & only getting younger


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