Rcs levers fitting issue - MVAgusta.net
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Rcs levers fitting issue

My mechanic's fitting brembo rcs levers to my F4 but, on full lock the lever adjuster turn dial hits the clocks !

All I can think is to weld a new steering lock stop to prevent this, has anyone else had this issue and solved it more simply ??
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesblond View Post
My mechanic's fitting brembo rcs levers to my F4 but, on full lock the lever adjuster turn dial hits the clocks !

All I can think is to weld a new steering lock stop to prevent this, has anyone else had this issue and solved it more simply ??
Don't worry about it. It's only the brake that just touches and it's only when it's just off full lock, won't do any damage to the clock, it just applies the brake slighhtly ! I think I lowered the rcs slightly any way so you don't have to raise your hand to grab the lever - That gave a bit more room from the clocks.

Just remember when your moving the bike around by hand !

You will soon get used to it.

Adam

Last edited by merc07; 01-10-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 02:22 PM
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Hey Double Agent James

Have you tried the later type F4 1000 bars ?.. They also improve the angle of the bar and makes it slighly more comfortable on the wrists..

Also, if you stopped bashing your bishop 5 times a day, your wrists won't ake as much..

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesblond View Post
My mechanic's fitting brembo rcs levers to my F4 but, on full lock the lever adjuster turn dial hits the clocks !

All I can think is to weld a new steering lock stop to prevent this, has anyone else had this issue and solved it more simply ??
Yes, it happened to my bike, and it was fixed by my mechanic. I didn't want to have the bike like that. I know he changed the limmiter of turn by a couple of mm. It's perfect now, and I can still lock it, when parked. I'll try to ask him about it, but not sure when to come back and give you the info. Maybe somebody else will help you sooner.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all and hey John iv just got naturally well developed forearms, mostly from digging 6'x6 holes to re home dopey forum comment posters :-)

I could get used to the whole love thing but it will niggle me on an otherwise no holds barred project so I'd really like it solved.

Jo, your spanner man had the best solution, I'll pass on your info and wait for you to update me on how it was achieved. If you could maybe take a photo of lock stop? Its an image that will probably tell an explanatory story.

"The first rule of Italian driving: Whats behind me is not important" 'The Gumball Rally' 1976

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 05:10 PM
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I had the same issue, I just moved the M/C closer to the throttle housing, it looks like you still have some room left on the bars ? Do not worry about removing those OEM locking pins in the switch gear, better to move them than have the front wheel lock up when you moving the bike around.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 05:19 PM
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knob snot you could try adjusting the clock bracket may be pack it a bit

or dont bother with those levers and give them to a bat that will use them to there full potenial

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-10-2011, 06:15 PM
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1. You could move the bars through the clamps a bit looks like you have a few mm.
2. Try to rotate the RCS on the bar.
3. Slide the RCS along the bar, I think that's pretty much what Donsy said.
I had a similar problem on the Duke.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 12:35 AM
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what Donsy said ^^^^


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-11-2011, 05:42 AM
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James..Donsy's suggestion is correct. If you ever want to go to the later 0/e bars for ergonomic reasons I have a spare set..They look nicer too imho ! Anyway if you are so inclined ..I'll let you try them and see if you like..Be a good excuse for a blat out to Harboro'
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